Antique Cookbooks and Austria's wonder bread: the Kaiser Semmeln

richard-in-cincy

Well-known member
One of the glorious pleasures of visiting with Cathy is her wall of cookbooks, particularly the Antique Cookbook Collection. Cathy pulled books for me to look at and I selected several to search for on Abebooks.com All of them were there, going back to 1903. They were for the most part $3-4 with free shipping.

One of the finds was in "Cooking for Two" published in 1909 that I found for $4.67.

This is a guide for the young housewife to spend her day cooking fabulous meals for her husband, served on fine china, with no servants. The pictures are just fabulous.

And of course, I went off on the recipe for Austrian Kaiser Semmeln, one of my favorite breads when I lived in Austria. It is ubiquitous. Every baker had fresh Semmeln with their wonderful thick golden brown crust, chewy texture, and so versatile.

We ate them at breakfast smeared with Schmelzkäse and Leburwurst. Sometimes Nutella, the forbidden pleasure of Austrian breakfast that finally came to the US a couple years back. I would go to the baker and buy a sack of these for $.50 in 1982.

Understandably, the first recipe I zeroed in on was "authentic as you can get not living in Austria" Kaiser Semmeln. They explained that of course you cannot get the hard Hungarian flour that made the Austrian Semmeln a Semmeln, but the recipe assured me that "this is as close as you can come in an American kitchen."

How could I not? That was a direct throw-down challenge.

So last week I followed the recipe to the last letter (except adding some wheat gluten that the hard winter wheat used in Austria adds).

And?

Yes, it's pretty much dead on. If you desire a chewy, crusty white bread roll resembling the Austrian Kaiser Semmeln, this is it.

After they stale, the Austrians use these for Knödeln.

So here it is, in the photo album you will find the steps in a really off the wall recipe. You start off making a ball of dough with flour, yeast, and water. Then you score the top and place it in a bowl of hot water to make the sponge. Also, the rolls are baked without the second raising. Very different.

But you will end up with a Kaiser Semmeln that pretty much tastes, chews, and smells like the real thing in Austria. And if you've tasted them, you will want to make this recipe.

The only thing I did differently in the recipe was adding 2 tablespoons of wheat gluten to approximate the high protein content of the hard winter wheat flour they use in Austria.

Note: the recipe is very clear about making the balls, slicing ( used a razor blade, slicing on the curve as the Austrians do) and they were very round at the end. I fought off the inclination the flatten them a bit, wanting to follow the recipe. I thought they would spread out. The finished rolls were very rolly-polly. Next time, I will flatten them slightly before making the star cut since that would be much more similar to the Austrian roll.

I did the taste test with a roll sliced and smeared with butter. I was all set for that taste. Wonderful bread smeared with that tangy aged sour butter that the Austrians use. My first taste? ACK!!! The butter was lame. American butter sucks. I helped it along by salting the top of the butter, much closer. But then I bought some real European butter to use on these special rolls.

My favorite restaurant in Cincinnati churns their own butter using aged cream and yogurt to approximate that earthy taste of European butter.

https://goo.gl/photos/DxGewcRouVJ5pwHx7

 
OMG, they look a bit like the Kaiser rolls I get at a local market, but I am positive those

are the real deal and so much better. I bet they would make great hamburger buns and not fall apart as most here in the states do with any type of good bbq concoction inside which is a little drippy.

 
Ok now I know what I will do with them when I get them baked

This is a recipe I developed when trying to replicate an amazing hot beef sandwich about 35 years ago. There was a place in northeast Minneapolis called Mayslack's that served big, sloppy, wonderful "two-fisters". Stan Mayslack stood in line and made each person hold their plate with two hands because the sandwich was so huge it would bend even the stiffest of paper plates. As far as I can tell, this sandwich was a version of Beef on Weck which is probably familiar to those of you on the East Coast. In Minneapolis we ALL wanted Stan's fabulous sandwich so the line stretched around the block at lunchtime. Stan's joint was a Polish bar and the beef was served from a big electric roaster. Savory, succulent slices of beef with onions and garlic dripping with flavorful broth were piled on sturdy buns then the whole thing was dunked in the juices if you wanted it, dumped on your waiting plate and garnished with some good, homemade Polish Dills. Oh man. Do I miss that! It's gone now. So I made my own version:

GARLIC BEEF TWO-FISTERS

5 lb beef- chuck, sirloin, round, tai-tip, whatever cut you like
25-30 cloves peeled garlic
3 cups strong beef broth
1/4 cup low sodium soy sauce
2 medium onions, sliced thin
1 tbsp thyme
1 tsp pepper
1 bay leaf
sturdy sandwich rolls

Flour and brown the beef on all sides. Put all ingredients except rolls in crockpot and cook on high for 3 hours then on low for another 2 hours. Shred or slice beef and put back in juices. Pile on sturdy rolls and serve with pickles and coleslaw.

 
Just for you all: REC: Kaiser Semmeln. . .

I needed some typing practice. . . and now I have the recipe too!

Richard, please let me know if anything is off here. . .

Kaiser Semmeln
For Sponge:
1 cake of compressed yeast
¾ cup lukewarm water
About ¾ cup of flour

2 cups of boiled water
1 teaspoonful salt
Between 6 and 7 cups of flour
White of one egg or less

Soften the yeast in the lukewarm water, mix thoroughly, then stir in the flour; knead the little ball of dough until it is smooth and elastic, Make a deep cut across the dough in both directions. Have the boiled water cooled to a lukewarm temperature and into this put the ball of dough. It will sink to the bottom of the dish, but will gradually rise as it becomes light. In about fifteen minutes it will float upon the water, a light, puffy “sponge.” Into this water and sponge stir the salt and between six and seven cups of flour. Knead or pound the dough about twenty minutes. Let rise in a temperature of about 70º F., until the mass is doubled in bulk. Divide into pieces weighting about three ounces each (there should be about fourteen pieces). Shape these into balls. When all are shaped, with a sharp knife cut down into each, to make five divisions. Set the balls into the buttered tins, some distance (a)part, brush over the tops generously with melted butter, and set to bake at once in a hot oven (400º F ?). Bake twenty or twenty-five minutes. When nearly baked, brush over with the beaten white of an egg, and return to the oven to finish baking. Bake the biscuit as soon as they are cut and brushed with butter. Only by this means can the shape and fine texture of this form of bread be secured. This recipe is said, by those who have eaten this bread in Vienna, to give a near approach to the justly famous Vienna bread. The Hungarian wheat used in Vienna makes a difference in flavor, which cannot be exactly duplicated in this country.

 
When I scanned your photos, I recognized the "500 Recipes by Request"

I have a copy that I inherited from my great Aunt Ruby who was a fabulous cook.

Any recipes that you particularly like that I should try?

 
That is a cookbook that Cathy shared with me.

Her family lived near this restaurant and went their frequently. I posted the pic for Cathy since my "new" copy still has the dust jacket and Cathy's doesn't so she could see what it originally looked like.

I haven't made anything from that book yet, although I have drooled over many of the old-time recipes in it.

I'm sure Cathy can supply some favorite tried-and-trues from it.

 
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