Beautiful Tomato Plants, but no tomatoes???
- Thread starter karensoca
- Start date
You may need calcium if the flowers are dropping.I think that is it.
They also require warm nights.
Here's an article that may help. Seems it may be pollination also. The calcium is for blossom end rot, not setting fruit.
http://www.seminolecountyfl.gov/lls/coopext/articles.asp?articleID=423
http://www.seminolecountyfl.gov/lls/coopext/articles.asp?articleID=423
They also require warm nights.
Here's an article that may help. Seems it may be pollination also. The calcium is for blossom end rot, not setting fruit.
http://www.seminolecountyfl.gov/lls/coopext/articles.asp?articleID=423
http://www.seminolecountyfl.gov/lls/coopext/articles.asp?articleID=423
bonnieinholland
Well-known member
tomato food
The nitrogen and fertilizer ratio mentioned by the others is the key to your tomatoes' flower drop, I think. Fertilizers have a three digit number, like 10-10-10, if you look at the small print on the package. That is the NPK ratio, or nitrogen(N)-phosporus(p)-potassium(k). Nitrogen is for leaves, phosphorus for roots and potassium for flowers or fruit. For tomatoes and other flowering/fruiting plants, you want a fertilizer where the potassium (that last digit in the ratio)is high, in the 17 or higher range. For all my veggies and flowers, I use Phostrogen Tomato Food, which has an NPK ratio of 12.5-5-24.5. It comes in either a soluble powder or liquid. Good luck!
cheers, Bonnie
The nitrogen and fertilizer ratio mentioned by the others is the key to your tomatoes' flower drop, I think. Fertilizers have a three digit number, like 10-10-10, if you look at the small print on the package. That is the NPK ratio, or nitrogen(N)-phosporus(p)-potassium(k). Nitrogen is for leaves, phosphorus for roots and potassium for flowers or fruit. For tomatoes and other flowering/fruiting plants, you want a fertilizer where the potassium (that last digit in the ratio)is high, in the 17 or higher range. For all my veggies and flowers, I use Phostrogen Tomato Food, which has an NPK ratio of 12.5-5-24.5. It comes in either a soluble powder or liquid. Good luck!
cheers, Bonnie
Thanks, pkline, for this info. And I echo rvb's big red smoochie welcome, even though I lack the
technical expertise to duplicate it.
The dear man is so under the influence, he's been smooching me too, bless his heart. Whatever works in difficult times!
This site is about so much more than cooking.
Welcome aboard.
technical expertise to duplicate it.
The dear man is so under the influence, he's been smooching me too, bless his heart. Whatever works in difficult times!
This site is about so much more than cooking.
Welcome aboard.
I don't mean to contradict you, Rick, but a high first number (N), will give you...
all green and little red. The nitrogen acts to give you a good vine and leaves, and the middle number (phosphorus) gives you the flowers/fruits. I think potassium (the last number) gives you a good root system.
At least that's reaching back to my early chemistry days.
So for flowering (or fruit-bearing) plants, you want a high middle number (5-10-5). Um, maybe this is what you were trying to say, I just misunderstood?
all green and little red. The nitrogen acts to give you a good vine and leaves, and the middle number (phosphorus) gives you the flowers/fruits. I think potassium (the last number) gives you a good root system.
At least that's reaching back to my early chemistry days.
So for flowering (or fruit-bearing) plants, you want a high middle number (5-10-5). Um, maybe this is what you were trying to say, I just misunderstood?
Yes, welcome, and thanks for the good article. Luckily, mine have been thriving on neglect this...
(edited)
summer. I'm off to the farmers markets to sell them in cute little paper bags I made.
Close to 100 plants, and all I did to them was staked them up and poured diluted fish emulsion on the tomato plants about once a week. I hope the green ones turn semi-red before the nights get too cold.
It's a bounty out there in the backyard!
http://www.marthastewart.com/page.jhtml?type=content&id=channel187943&contentGroup=MSL&site=living
(edited)
summer. I'm off to the farmers markets to sell them in cute little paper bags I made.
Close to 100 plants, and all I did to them was staked them up and poured diluted fish emulsion on the tomato plants about once a week. I hope the green ones turn semi-red before the nights get too cold.
It's a bounty out there in the backyard!
http://www.marthastewart.com/page.jhtml?type=content&id=channel187943&contentGroup=MSL&site=living
In southern California, you should still have plenty of time...
and warmth for the tomatoes to grow, once the flowers stay put. I don't know much about flowers dropping off, but others above, here, have given good advice.
I did read, though, that once the tomatoes have started to go from flowers to tiny green tomatoes, it's helpful to "root prune" them to direct the plant into giving more of the energy to the fruit rather than the roots. You just dig a shovel into the soil about a foot away from the plant, as if you were going to dig it up, but don't loosen the soil. That severs the root so it says to itself "Gee, maybe I should put more energy into my fruit."
)
From Cornell's Ag-Experiment Station: "(Cold weather) will also be a good time to root prune the plants. Root pruning means taking a spade and pressing it into the soil about 6-8 inches. Do this in a circle, one foot from the base of the plant. By doing this you will sever parts of the root which will usually hasten ripening."
At least that's what I've read. 'Seems as though it should work, and I plan on doing this in about a week, since the days are getting shorter and the nights are getting cooler.
and warmth for the tomatoes to grow, once the flowers stay put. I don't know much about flowers dropping off, but others above, here, have given good advice.
I did read, though, that once the tomatoes have started to go from flowers to tiny green tomatoes, it's helpful to "root prune" them to direct the plant into giving more of the energy to the fruit rather than the roots. You just dig a shovel into the soil about a foot away from the plant, as if you were going to dig it up, but don't loosen the soil. That severs the root so it says to itself "Gee, maybe I should put more energy into my fruit."
)From Cornell's Ag-Experiment Station: "(Cold weather) will also be a good time to root prune the plants. Root pruning means taking a spade and pressing it into the soil about 6-8 inches. Do this in a circle, one foot from the base of the plant. By doing this you will sever parts of the root which will usually hasten ripening."
At least that's what I've read. 'Seems as though it should work, and I plan on doing this in about a week, since the days are getting shorter and the nights are getting cooler.
Two things: first, Epsom Salts!
This (mag sulfate I think) is a sure way to get them to set and ripen fruit. I believe you use 1 tablespoon Epsom Salts to 1 gallon water. Dissolve, water with this solution. Fish emulsion works wonders too, but since you are already most likely out of balance I'd use the Epsom Salts.
Second: Tomatoes will drop their blossoms if the nighttime temps don't drop below a certain temp. I don't remember the exact temp, sorry... I believe it is around 68 degrees f. I could be off on the number but hot nights do cause blossom drop. Depending upon where in southern California you are, this may be a factor. I don't think you can do anything about it but wait for cool nights.
This link may be of assistance.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/tomato/
This (mag sulfate I think) is a sure way to get them to set and ripen fruit. I believe you use 1 tablespoon Epsom Salts to 1 gallon water. Dissolve, water with this solution. Fish emulsion works wonders too, but since you are already most likely out of balance I'd use the Epsom Salts.
Second: Tomatoes will drop their blossoms if the nighttime temps don't drop below a certain temp. I don't remember the exact temp, sorry... I believe it is around 68 degrees f. I could be off on the number but hot nights do cause blossom drop. Depending upon where in southern California you are, this may be a factor. I don't think you can do anything about it but wait for cool nights.
This link may be of assistance.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/tomato/
Bags
I first saw them on marthastewart.com, but they aren't there anymore.
You take brown (or white) kraft lunch bags and cut them about 2 inches down from the top. Then roll the top "cuff" down twice, maybe three times, depending on how tall you want the bag. I added a rafia bow to the front of them, and they look really cute like that.
I used this idea once for place-setting at Thanksgiving, and everyone liked the idea. Cheap, cute, and sturdy! See link (similar, but not exactly like how she showed them).
I first saw them on marthastewart.com, but they aren't there anymore.
You take brown (or white) kraft lunch bags and cut them about 2 inches down from the top. Then roll the top "cuff" down twice, maybe three times, depending on how tall you want the bag. I added a rafia bow to the front of them, and they look really cute like that.
I used this idea once for place-setting at Thanksgiving, and everyone liked the idea. Cheap, cute, and sturdy! See link (similar, but not exactly like how she showed them).