Chef's Tasting Menu

richard-in-cincy

Well-known member
We had this wonderful dinner at one of the top 5 restaurants here in Cincinnati. I don't have recipes, but it was so unusual and imaginative, I thought it could serve as inspiration for some dinner party "show pieces":

First Course: Lasagne

Large paper thin slices of potato fried into crispy chips were layered with a tomato olve marmalade, leaves of fresh green sorrel, and that wonderful earthy (I always think "barnyard and hay" when I taste it) ricotta insalata.

Wine: Pieropan Soave Classico 2004 (Brilliant straw color. White fruit and almond aromas; pleasant minerality and an lingering note of bitter almond).

Second Course: Savory Goat Cheese Creme Brulee

This was a wild selection! The ultra-rich, smooth, and creamy (and savory) goat cheese custard had the classic sugar crust and topped with a salad of Red Grape and Basil with a Tangerine and Vanilla Vinaigrette. Unusual and absolutely sublime.

Wine: Far Niente "Dolce" California 2001 (Botrytis’d dessert wine. Semillon & late harvest Sauvignon Blanc. Dark yellow-gold, fat, rich and concentrated, with layers of apricot, fig, butterscotch, smoke, tobacco and caramel, supported by firm acidity and finishing with a long, rich, oily aftertaste. Liquid gold from Napa Valley.) This sweet dessert wine really held it's own with the richness of this dish.

Third Course: Tarragon Marinated Salmon

The tarragon infused salmon was grilled and served on a bed of applewood smoked bacon and oyster mushroom ragout. Topped with a Pinot Noir Emulsion (which I proclaimed looked like a pink frog's nest--farmboy, what can I say? smileys/wink.gif

Wine: Patricia Green Cellars Oregon Pinot Noir 2004 (The 2004 has the supple and expansive texture that is a hallmark of this bottling. What it really provides is incredibly dense and pure fruit. There are high toned sweet cherries from Balcombe, blackberries and licorice from Anden and Croft and a backbone of amazingly silky tannins from the barrel of the Estate Vineyard that was fermented with whole clusters). Another amazing dish with intense flavors, and once again, a wine pairing that was perfection. What the wine description dosn't include was how "earthy" and "forest floor mushroomy" this wine was. The bouquet was like standing in the middle of a dense and lush forest. Bilbo Baggins would have this wine in his cellar. LOL

Fourth Course: Roasted Veal Tenderloin and Braised Oxtail with a Red Wine Blanket.

Yes, it really had a blanket. A very novel agar-agar thickened red wine pliable and edible blanket (or more like ribbons). This was served with haricot vert. The oxtail was classic French slow-braised bistro fare done to a perfection. The tenderloin providing a nice contrast of texture and flavor. A most unusual dish.

Wine: Château La Fleur de Plince, France 2002

(opulent red with a high proportion of Merlot grapes gives this wine a fabulous sensuous richness on the palate. Deeply coloured this concentrated wine offers sweet black fruit, medium tannins and a smooth, long finish.)

Fifth Course: Chocolate Macadamia Nut Blini

The layers--pool of bittersweet chocolate sauce, raspberry coulis decorating the edges of the plate, whole cherries and blackberries marmalade, blini (sort of a soft chocolate cookie with macadamia nuts--I thought the macadamia nuts didn't work here, they seemed "raw" and unrefined compared to the other tastes and I immediately wanted the nut to be a toasted pecan), mascarpone passion fruit cream (out of this world!), blini, cream, chocoloate sculptures atop. Yummy.

Wine: La Spinetta Moscato d'Asti Piedmont Italy 2004 (I've already mentioned this amazing wine earlier, the bouquet is that of an old-fashioned damask rose. Unbelievable.)

Sixth Course: Cheese (epoisses, explorateur, petit basque)

I felt like a judge on Iron Chef as each dish came out of the kitchen and we dissected it and commented on it. Too fun.

 
Hey everyone...

This dinner was way over the top. I tried to include enough description so that people could try duplicating anything that sounded intriguing. If you need more info, let me know. The Savory Goat Cheese Cream Brulee was the star of this meal for me (even though everything else was exquisite and exceptional). BTW, it was seved in a tall deep sided clear glass bowl, most unusual as well. Also, the pairing of that amazing late harvest dessert wine with it was inspired. When the Sommelier was presenting it I was highly skeptical that what they were presenting what was, essentially, a very intense dessert wine so early in the meal, but it was an amazing combination.

Gretchen the restaurant is owned by Paul and Pam Sturkey, it's called Sturkey's, and it's in Wyoming (Wyoming avenue exit from I-75 south, I think the exit is Davis if you're heading north). It's been on Cincinnati magazines top-5 restaurant list for about 3 years now. Paul is a feature contributor on DYI and is recognized as one of the top chefs in Cincinnati. You can get more info (menus, directions, etc.) here: http://sturkeys.com/

 
Richard

Thank you for sharing that amazing menu! I think that the brulee would have been the stand out for me as well. I would definitely have to just taste the wine throughout so I could tast the dessert!

 
Richard ~ reading your descriptions was downright erotic...

and better than any novel. Pure pleasure. I have to go take a cold shower now. (I'd sure love to know about the bacon and mushroom ragout under the salmon.)

 
Ooooohhhh! Glad you liked! : )

You know, other than those ingredients, I assume there was some onion and garlic and perhaps a strong consomme to serve as the binder, cooked and reduced greatly, and since this was a wine meal, a splash or a pinot noir or similar red wine. But that's really about all I can tell you/remember. It was the "base" for the grilled salmon.

 
If I smoked, I'd have that cigarette right now. Ha! The salmon/ragou gets tried this weekend. (nt)

 
Oh let me see, I'm getting an image of a langorous...

Bette Davis standing on a tony Boston balcony having a cigarette lit for her, and she says something pithy like, oh, I don't know, "Let's not wish for the moon when we have the stars."

Like that?

: )

 
No...more like that really good, relaxing cigarette in bed...

after a sensational romp in the sheets and one screaming big O.

 
If you'd like a recipe to get you started, there's a Goat Cheese Creme Brulee with Papaya Sauce....

in a little cookbook by Debbie Puente titled Elegantly Easy Creme Brulee (click on the link for Amazon description). The recipe apparently comes from Enrico-Glaudo, chef-owner of EMI on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles. I have the book and would be happy to type the recipe if you like. There are a few other savory creme brulees in the book as well, which look intriguing.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1580630081/002-1909675-0002445?v=glance&n=283155

 
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