The perfect picnic
Make it at home or order takeout. Either way, it's great to dine alfresco.
Laura Robin
The Ottawa Citizen
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
If you're preparing a picnic, serving supper on the patio or taking food to a cottage this summer, you have two top choices: pick it up at The Hungry Planet in Perth, or make Judy Dempsey's recipes yourself.
Judy, it can safely be said, is the queen of portable food. She grew up in Ottawa and began her culinary career as a university student in Toronto, when she discovered a need for catering for film companies.
"They told me: 'We want the food hot, and, if we say we're breaking at 12:07, we want the food at 12:07,'" she says.
After six years driving all over the greater Toronto area in her '65 Volvo and building up a successful catering business, in 1991 Judy and her new husband decided to move to Perth for a slower pace. But Judy, whose dad had owned Dempsey's Deli at Bank and Slater streets for 30 years, had the food business in her blood.
A year later, with a newborn and toddler in tow, she started selling her wares at the Perth Farmer's Market. Soon she was selling everything from homemade bread and springrolls (more on her Asian obsession later) to homegrown herbs and rhubarb cocktails. Before she knew it, she was back in the catering business.
"But I'd always had it in the back of my mind that I wanted to open something like a Pusateri's (an upscale grocery/ take-home business with two Toronto locations) or a Balducci's (similar concept, in New York City) -- preparing and selling really neat foods to go," says Judy, 51.
She had no intention of opening a restaurant but, when the only space she could find in Perth was the back of an old car dealership, she jumped.
"This space was just so cool, I knew I had to have tables."
The Hungry Planet opened at the back of the Art Deco Perkins building 10 years ago. It has been raved about in Where to Eat in Canada every year since, and raved about by the Citizen's dining out critic, Anne DesBrisay, a few years ago. (Ms. DesBrisay said "there are simply no better buns" than Judy's homemade focaccia, and said her Scotch Line Burger "may be the best burger on the planet.")
Judy says that from the beginning, her idea was simple -- "to make delicious food from real, local ingredients."
"I realize now that what I was trying to do at the beginning is what everyone is trying to do now," says Judy, who was one of only 1,000 artisanal producers, cooks and chefs from around the world to attend the Slow Food conference in the Piedmont, Italy, last fall.
As many of her ingredients as possible are local (and the list is growing), but her influences are decidedly global. After falling in love with the exotic Thai pavilion at Expo '67, it took her 13 years to get to Asia. But she's been back nine times since -- to Burma, Nepal, India, Japan, "and always Thailand, on every trip."
She has taken cooking courses in Chiang Mai from one of Thailand's best teachers. Her restaurant's tables are covered with batik cloths and many of the colourful plates and bowls have been lugged back from Asia in her carry-on bags.
So it comes as no surprise, then, that most popular items on her menu, written on a long sheet of brown butcher's paper taped to the wall, are the burgers made with local lamb and beef, but also authentic "street style" Pad Thai and a Malaysian noodle bowl.
The big Strubb's dill pickle served with all the sandwiches and burgers must be attributed to her dad's influence. Bruce Dempsey, 77, makes the one-hour drive to Perth from Ottawa about once a week to deliver supplies and cut up chickens for his daughter.
The Hungry Planet's famous carrot cake is from a recipe Judy's childhood next-door neighbour, Jean Bosloy of Alta Vista, made for the day after Judy's wedding, when they were opening gifts.
But The Hungry Planet also serves a Santorini sandwich and souvlaki.
"If something takes my fancy -- even if I've never been to that country -- I'll make it," Judy says. "I'm not getting wealthy, but I'm doing what I love."
These perfect patio or picnic dishes, here and on page F1, reflect Judy's delicious local-global outlook.
The Lemongrass Glass Noodle Salad, a perennial favourite at her restaurant, is from a recipe she learned in Chiang Mai. She buys her bean thread noodles at Manphong Super Market on Somerset Street (they're the ones that come in a hot-pink mesh bag, Lung Kow brand). The Bison Burger is a new item that she hopes to have on the regular menu soon. A local farmer on Highway 7 has started raising bison but they're not big enough yet, so for now her bison comes from Bancroft. She makes her own blueberry jam, wild leeks are available at area markets in spring, and the arugula comes from a huge patch in her backyard (which also supplies the restaurant with heirloom tomatoes, herbs and cucumbers). The goat cheese is made in Ontario.
She adapted the recipes for the gazpacho and the quinoa salad from ones that friends served to her, and the pasta salad -- "well, we just came up with that one hot summer night.
"It's just something you have to have when the local tomatoes are really ripe and juicy."
The Hungry Planet is open for lunches and early suppers Tuesdays through Saturdays, and for takeout "whenever we're in here working," says Judy. That's 65 hours a week (so much for a slower pace), starting early in the morning Tuesdays through Saturdays.
She's there until 6 p.m. Tuesdays to Thursdays, until 5 p.m. on Saturdays and 7 p.m. on Fridays ("so people can pick stuff up on their way to the cottage," says Judy).
You can call ahead to reserve your takeout order at 613-264-9234.
- - -
Warm Pasta Salad with Green Olives, Feta and Shrimp
Serves 4
- 2 to 3 large ripe, juicy tomatoes, chopped
- 1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 cup (250 mL) pitted green olives, coarsely chopped
- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) minced local garlic
- 11/2 cups (375 mL) crumbled feta cheese
- 1 pound (450 g) cooked and cooled shrimp
- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) chopped Italian parsley
- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) shredded fresh basil
- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried oregano
- 1 pound (450 g) short pasta, cooked, drained but still warm
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) fruity extra-virgin olive oil, or to taste
- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) balsamic vinegar, or to taste
- Dried chili pepper flakes (optional)
1. In a large bowl, combine tomatoes, onion, olives, garlic, feta, shrimp, parsley, basil and oregano.
2. Toss with the warm pasta and dress with the oil and vinegar, to taste. Add chilies, if desired. Add salt if needed. Serve immediately.
Bison Burger with Cranberries, Wild Leeks and Goat Cheese
Makes 8 to 10 burgers
For the patties:
- 3 pounds (1.4 kg) ground bison (may substitute beef, or mixture of beef and ground lamb)
- 1 pound (450 g) ground pork
- 3/4 cup (175 mL) chopped dried cranberries
- 3/4 cup (175 mL) wild leeks or garlic chives, chopped
- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) minced fresh local garlic
- 3 eggs
- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) salt
For the blueberry slather:
- 1 cup (250 mL) blueberry jam
- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) balsamic vinegar
- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) minced fresh local garlic
For final assembly:
- Goat cheese
- 8 to 10 buns
- Arugula greens
1. Combine patty ingredients in a large bowl and form into burgers. Cover and set aside, refrigerated.
2. To make the blueberry slather, in a saucepan simmer ingredients over low heat, until reduced to 1 cup (250 mL). Cool and set aside.
3. To make the burgers, grill patties over medium heat until just cooked through (don't use high heat with bison or they will dry out, as bison is very lean). Spread goat cheese on bottom of bun. Layer with arugula and bison burger. Cover with blueberry slather and top with bun.
Yellow Tomato Gazpacho with Basil-Mint Drizzle
Serves 6
For the soup:
- 21/2 pounds (1.1 kg) yellow tomatoes
- 2 cups (500 mL) chopped cucumber
- 2 cups (500 mL) chopped roasted yellow pepper
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped sweet onion, such as Vidalia, Spanish or red
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) orange juice
- 3 tablespoons (50 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) white wine vinegar
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced fresh local garlic
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) raw fresh corn (for garnish)
For the basil-mint drizzle:
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) fresh basil leaves, chopped
- 1/4 cup (50 mL) fresh mint leaves, chopped
- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) minced fresh local garlic
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) orange juice
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) apple cider vinegar
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) lime juice
- 6 tablespoons (100 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
- Salt and sugar, to taste
1. Cut tomatoes in half and squeeze into a strainer, over a bowl. Press on seeds to extract all juice. Chop tomatoes. Set aside 1/2 cup (125 mL) tomatoes, 1/4 cup (50 mL) cucumber and 1/4 cup (50 mL) yellow pepper.
2. Combine remaining tomatoes, cucumber and peppers with onion in a blender or food processor. Pulse until smooth. Add tomato juices, orange juice, oil, vinegar and garlic. Process until smooth and add salt, to taste. Add reserved vegetables and chill overnight.
3. To make the drizzle, in a blender or food processor puree all ingredients until smooth, finishing with salt and sugar to season to taste.
4. To serve, check chilled soup for salt and adjust, if necessary. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with the basil-mint drizzle. Sprinkle with fresh raw corn and serve.
Quinoa Salad with Apricots
Serves 4 to 6
- 1 cup (250 mL) quinoa grain (at health food stores and some supermarkets)
- 1/2 English cucumber, diced
- 12 dried apricots, diced
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) cup chopped green onions
- 1 cup (250 mL) chopped cilantro
- Zest of 1 lemon
- 3 to 4 tablespoons (50 to 65 mL) lime juice
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) sesame oil
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) sugar
- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground cumin
1. Cook quinoa in 2 cups (500 mL) of boiling water about 15 minutes, or until tender. Drain and cool.
2. Toss remaining ingredients with quinoa and add salt, to taste.
Macadamia and Bittersweet Chocolate Chunk Cookies
Makes 12 to 18 cookies
- 2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) baking soda
- 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) salt
- 3/4 cup (175 mL or 11/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted
- 1 cup (250 mL) brown sugar, lightly packed
- 2 eggs
- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) vanilla extract
- 4 ounces (115 g) macadamia nuts
- 2 cups (500 mL) bittersweet chocolate chunks
1. In a large bowl combine flour, baking soda and salt; set aside.
2. In another bowl, beat together melted butter and sugar until blended. Mix in eggs and vanilla.
3. Combine wet and dry ingredients. Stir in nuts and chocolate. Chill the dough overnight, covered.
4. Preheat oven to 325 degreesF (160 degreesC).
5. Using a 1/4-cup (50-mL) measuring cup, scoop dough onto cookie sheets lined with parchment paper. Press lightly and bake 15 to 18 minutes.
Lemongrass Glass Noodle Salad
Serves 4
- 4 nests of bean thread noodles, such as Lung Kow brand
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) each, julienned carrot, celery, red and yellow pepper
- 1 cup (250 mL) julienned
cucumber
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) finely sliced shallots
- 1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 25 mL) finely sliced and ground lemongrass (you can use a clean coffee grinder to grind it)
- 1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 25 mL) chopped green onion
- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) finely sliced fresh mint leaves
- 3 tablespoons (50 mL) coarsely chopped cilantro
For the dressing:
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) fish sauce
- Chopped fresh chilies, to taste
- 5 tablespoons (75 mL) sugar, or to taste
- 3/4 cup (175 mL) lime juice
- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) minced garlic
1. Submerge noodles in boiling water and cook 1 minute, or until soft and clear. Drain and cool.
2. Combine dressing ingredients and set aside.
3. When noodles are dry (about 20 minutes), toss with dressing, then toss with remaining ingredients.
© The Ottawa Citizen 2007
Make it at home or order takeout. Either way, it's great to dine alfresco.
Laura Robin
The Ottawa Citizen
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
If you're preparing a picnic, serving supper on the patio or taking food to a cottage this summer, you have two top choices: pick it up at The Hungry Planet in Perth, or make Judy Dempsey's recipes yourself.
Judy, it can safely be said, is the queen of portable food. She grew up in Ottawa and began her culinary career as a university student in Toronto, when she discovered a need for catering for film companies.
"They told me: 'We want the food hot, and, if we say we're breaking at 12:07, we want the food at 12:07,'" she says.
After six years driving all over the greater Toronto area in her '65 Volvo and building up a successful catering business, in 1991 Judy and her new husband decided to move to Perth for a slower pace. But Judy, whose dad had owned Dempsey's Deli at Bank and Slater streets for 30 years, had the food business in her blood.
A year later, with a newborn and toddler in tow, she started selling her wares at the Perth Farmer's Market. Soon she was selling everything from homemade bread and springrolls (more on her Asian obsession later) to homegrown herbs and rhubarb cocktails. Before she knew it, she was back in the catering business.
"But I'd always had it in the back of my mind that I wanted to open something like a Pusateri's (an upscale grocery/ take-home business with two Toronto locations) or a Balducci's (similar concept, in New York City) -- preparing and selling really neat foods to go," says Judy, 51.
She had no intention of opening a restaurant but, when the only space she could find in Perth was the back of an old car dealership, she jumped.
"This space was just so cool, I knew I had to have tables."
The Hungry Planet opened at the back of the Art Deco Perkins building 10 years ago. It has been raved about in Where to Eat in Canada every year since, and raved about by the Citizen's dining out critic, Anne DesBrisay, a few years ago. (Ms. DesBrisay said "there are simply no better buns" than Judy's homemade focaccia, and said her Scotch Line Burger "may be the best burger on the planet.")
Judy says that from the beginning, her idea was simple -- "to make delicious food from real, local ingredients."
"I realize now that what I was trying to do at the beginning is what everyone is trying to do now," says Judy, who was one of only 1,000 artisanal producers, cooks and chefs from around the world to attend the Slow Food conference in the Piedmont, Italy, last fall.
As many of her ingredients as possible are local (and the list is growing), but her influences are decidedly global. After falling in love with the exotic Thai pavilion at Expo '67, it took her 13 years to get to Asia. But she's been back nine times since -- to Burma, Nepal, India, Japan, "and always Thailand, on every trip."
She has taken cooking courses in Chiang Mai from one of Thailand's best teachers. Her restaurant's tables are covered with batik cloths and many of the colourful plates and bowls have been lugged back from Asia in her carry-on bags.
So it comes as no surprise, then, that most popular items on her menu, written on a long sheet of brown butcher's paper taped to the wall, are the burgers made with local lamb and beef, but also authentic "street style" Pad Thai and a Malaysian noodle bowl.
The big Strubb's dill pickle served with all the sandwiches and burgers must be attributed to her dad's influence. Bruce Dempsey, 77, makes the one-hour drive to Perth from Ottawa about once a week to deliver supplies and cut up chickens for his daughter.
The Hungry Planet's famous carrot cake is from a recipe Judy's childhood next-door neighbour, Jean Bosloy of Alta Vista, made for the day after Judy's wedding, when they were opening gifts.
But The Hungry Planet also serves a Santorini sandwich and souvlaki.
"If something takes my fancy -- even if I've never been to that country -- I'll make it," Judy says. "I'm not getting wealthy, but I'm doing what I love."
These perfect patio or picnic dishes, here and on page F1, reflect Judy's delicious local-global outlook.
The Lemongrass Glass Noodle Salad, a perennial favourite at her restaurant, is from a recipe she learned in Chiang Mai. She buys her bean thread noodles at Manphong Super Market on Somerset Street (they're the ones that come in a hot-pink mesh bag, Lung Kow brand). The Bison Burger is a new item that she hopes to have on the regular menu soon. A local farmer on Highway 7 has started raising bison but they're not big enough yet, so for now her bison comes from Bancroft. She makes her own blueberry jam, wild leeks are available at area markets in spring, and the arugula comes from a huge patch in her backyard (which also supplies the restaurant with heirloom tomatoes, herbs and cucumbers). The goat cheese is made in Ontario.
She adapted the recipes for the gazpacho and the quinoa salad from ones that friends served to her, and the pasta salad -- "well, we just came up with that one hot summer night.
"It's just something you have to have when the local tomatoes are really ripe and juicy."
The Hungry Planet is open for lunches and early suppers Tuesdays through Saturdays, and for takeout "whenever we're in here working," says Judy. That's 65 hours a week (so much for a slower pace), starting early in the morning Tuesdays through Saturdays.
She's there until 6 p.m. Tuesdays to Thursdays, until 5 p.m. on Saturdays and 7 p.m. on Fridays ("so people can pick stuff up on their way to the cottage," says Judy).
You can call ahead to reserve your takeout order at 613-264-9234.
- - -
Warm Pasta Salad with Green Olives, Feta and Shrimp
Serves 4
- 2 to 3 large ripe, juicy tomatoes, chopped
- 1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 cup (250 mL) pitted green olives, coarsely chopped
- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) minced local garlic
- 11/2 cups (375 mL) crumbled feta cheese
- 1 pound (450 g) cooked and cooled shrimp
- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) chopped Italian parsley
- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) shredded fresh basil
- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried oregano
- 1 pound (450 g) short pasta, cooked, drained but still warm
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) fruity extra-virgin olive oil, or to taste
- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) balsamic vinegar, or to taste
- Dried chili pepper flakes (optional)
1. In a large bowl, combine tomatoes, onion, olives, garlic, feta, shrimp, parsley, basil and oregano.
2. Toss with the warm pasta and dress with the oil and vinegar, to taste. Add chilies, if desired. Add salt if needed. Serve immediately.
Bison Burger with Cranberries, Wild Leeks and Goat Cheese
Makes 8 to 10 burgers
For the patties:
- 3 pounds (1.4 kg) ground bison (may substitute beef, or mixture of beef and ground lamb)
- 1 pound (450 g) ground pork
- 3/4 cup (175 mL) chopped dried cranberries
- 3/4 cup (175 mL) wild leeks or garlic chives, chopped
- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) minced fresh local garlic
- 3 eggs
- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) salt
For the blueberry slather:
- 1 cup (250 mL) blueberry jam
- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) balsamic vinegar
- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) minced fresh local garlic
For final assembly:
- Goat cheese
- 8 to 10 buns
- Arugula greens
1. Combine patty ingredients in a large bowl and form into burgers. Cover and set aside, refrigerated.
2. To make the blueberry slather, in a saucepan simmer ingredients over low heat, until reduced to 1 cup (250 mL). Cool and set aside.
3. To make the burgers, grill patties over medium heat until just cooked through (don't use high heat with bison or they will dry out, as bison is very lean). Spread goat cheese on bottom of bun. Layer with arugula and bison burger. Cover with blueberry slather and top with bun.
Yellow Tomato Gazpacho with Basil-Mint Drizzle
Serves 6
For the soup:
- 21/2 pounds (1.1 kg) yellow tomatoes
- 2 cups (500 mL) chopped cucumber
- 2 cups (500 mL) chopped roasted yellow pepper
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped sweet onion, such as Vidalia, Spanish or red
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) orange juice
- 3 tablespoons (50 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) white wine vinegar
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced fresh local garlic
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) raw fresh corn (for garnish)
For the basil-mint drizzle:
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) fresh basil leaves, chopped
- 1/4 cup (50 mL) fresh mint leaves, chopped
- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) minced fresh local garlic
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) orange juice
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) apple cider vinegar
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) lime juice
- 6 tablespoons (100 mL) extra-virgin olive oil
- Salt and sugar, to taste
1. Cut tomatoes in half and squeeze into a strainer, over a bowl. Press on seeds to extract all juice. Chop tomatoes. Set aside 1/2 cup (125 mL) tomatoes, 1/4 cup (50 mL) cucumber and 1/4 cup (50 mL) yellow pepper.
2. Combine remaining tomatoes, cucumber and peppers with onion in a blender or food processor. Pulse until smooth. Add tomato juices, orange juice, oil, vinegar and garlic. Process until smooth and add salt, to taste. Add reserved vegetables and chill overnight.
3. To make the drizzle, in a blender or food processor puree all ingredients until smooth, finishing with salt and sugar to season to taste.
4. To serve, check chilled soup for salt and adjust, if necessary. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with the basil-mint drizzle. Sprinkle with fresh raw corn and serve.
Quinoa Salad with Apricots
Serves 4 to 6
- 1 cup (250 mL) quinoa grain (at health food stores and some supermarkets)
- 1/2 English cucumber, diced
- 12 dried apricots, diced
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) cup chopped green onions
- 1 cup (250 mL) chopped cilantro
- Zest of 1 lemon
- 3 to 4 tablespoons (50 to 65 mL) lime juice
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) sesame oil
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) sugar
- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground cumin
1. Cook quinoa in 2 cups (500 mL) of boiling water about 15 minutes, or until tender. Drain and cool.
2. Toss remaining ingredients with quinoa and add salt, to taste.
Macadamia and Bittersweet Chocolate Chunk Cookies
Makes 12 to 18 cookies
- 2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) baking soda
- 1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) salt
- 3/4 cup (175 mL or 11/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted
- 1 cup (250 mL) brown sugar, lightly packed
- 2 eggs
- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) vanilla extract
- 4 ounces (115 g) macadamia nuts
- 2 cups (500 mL) bittersweet chocolate chunks
1. In a large bowl combine flour, baking soda and salt; set aside.
2. In another bowl, beat together melted butter and sugar until blended. Mix in eggs and vanilla.
3. Combine wet and dry ingredients. Stir in nuts and chocolate. Chill the dough overnight, covered.
4. Preheat oven to 325 degreesF (160 degreesC).
5. Using a 1/4-cup (50-mL) measuring cup, scoop dough onto cookie sheets lined with parchment paper. Press lightly and bake 15 to 18 minutes.
Lemongrass Glass Noodle Salad
Serves 4
- 4 nests of bean thread noodles, such as Lung Kow brand
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) each, julienned carrot, celery, red and yellow pepper
- 1 cup (250 mL) julienned
cucumber
- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) finely sliced shallots
- 1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 25 mL) finely sliced and ground lemongrass (you can use a clean coffee grinder to grind it)
- 1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 25 mL) chopped green onion
- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) finely sliced fresh mint leaves
- 3 tablespoons (50 mL) coarsely chopped cilantro
For the dressing:
- 1/2 cup (125 mL) fish sauce
- Chopped fresh chilies, to taste
- 5 tablespoons (75 mL) sugar, or to taste
- 3/4 cup (175 mL) lime juice
- 2 teaspoons (10 mL) minced garlic
1. Submerge noodles in boiling water and cook 1 minute, or until soft and clear. Drain and cool.
2. Combine dressing ingredients and set aside.
3. When noodles are dry (about 20 minutes), toss with dressing, then toss with remaining ingredients.
© The Ottawa Citizen 2007