from the underground

W

wekick

Well-known member
I had heard about this type of restaurant but didn't really know of any locally. The idea really intrigued me. Then one day, through the world of the internet, someone referred us and we got an invitation to a local incarnation of this phenomena! We were given a secret website with a password. It told the general philosophy of the chef and gave a tentative prixfix menu. Because it was Valentines day there was a choice between the traditional(red) side and the dark(black) side. Each had different menus. We reserved on line and received a few emails from the chef describing the food and wine pairings but did not know where it was to be held or even what time until 11:00 that day. It was held in a small art gallery with a patio and outdoor fireplace. Some were dressed to the nines with suit and tie and others had blue jeans and t shirts. I was surprised that very few people were 50 yrs+...mostly younger. We sat at a table for 8-all people we did not know but had a really great group-all interested and very knowledgeable about food. They had cocktails to start. I had

"the dark heart" cherry cider, pepper vodka and a few other things-very good. Everyone settled to their tables and the first course was served. We had a popcorn encrusted scallop with a saffron risotto paired with a Chablis. The next course was Lobster Bisque followed by pomegranate granite. The next plate was stuffed duck breast with a pickled cabbage and cherries. The last course was a bread pudding with chocolate. dinner was served from 7:30 until 11:00? Portions were small so you did not get stuffed. The time flew by with lots of conversation in between courses. The food was presented very nicely, but simply, without excessive vertical stacking and sauces flitting around the edges of the plate. The food was all fabulous. We did meet the chef but never did know his name. Oddly, no coffee or bread of any kind. Each person received a chocolate box with a truffle in it as a favor. Payment was in a common envelope at the table. It was a blast but a little spendy. I definitely would like to go again.

 
I remember a story I heard Dee Snyder tell about when he was a young...

...singer trying to make it big in the music business. (Some of you might remember when he did make it big, as lead singer of Twisted Sister.)

He said he once joined a band that was so "cool", they wouldn't tell him the name of the band for three weeks. They had to be sure he was cool enough to handle it.

They finally decided to tell him the name of the band. They said, "The band's name is "THIS"".

He was puzzled. "THIS? What kind of name is that?"

"You know! THIS! As in, THIS is it, or THIS is cool... you get it."

Dee replied, "How about THIS SUCKS!"

He went on to (debatably) better things shortly thereafter.

Michael

 
If they would invite us, they can't be that exclusive!

After all these restaurants are a business and I'm sure hope to turn a profit and have to recruit new people. I think there are a lot of different motivations for having these dinners. I think for some it is a vanity project, some chefs don't want the day to day stress of running a restaurant and some have a special focus with the food. There is often a "value" aspect to it. The secrecy is part of the shtick. Ghetto Gourmet is a website devoted to underground restaurants and the symbol alot of them have is a skull with a chef's hat and fork and spoon as the cross bones. We went anticipating great food but what we really enjoyed was meeting people that had the same interest in food and wine that we do and much more knowledgeable than we are but in a very humble way. Most of all our friends and family think feta cheese is very exotic and don't drink wine. I think it would be fun to have your own dinner club with others who like to cook. That is the more elusive group!

http://www.theghet.com/

 
I had colleagues that went to a "secret location" in an apt in Philly

not the exact same concept, but similiar. It was BYOB; you called for a date, brought your friends. Food was supposed to be terrific. Understand that he stopped doing it because it became not such a hidden secret, and the Board of Health was in the loop...(So I heard) Heard it was expensive, but worth every penny. Fun concept.

 
Re: sounds like such fun! popcorn encrusted scallop????!! how'd they do that?

They actually ground the popcorn to a fine consistency and I think just dusted one side of the scallop and browned it then turned it and finished cooking. I was thinking of using one of those small coffee grinders. I keep one just for spices.

 
What city was this in? Excellent report. My friend Michael is working on a book

about underground restaurants. I met him when I was working as a guest chef booker for one....They can be lots of fun and vary quite a bit.

 
It was in St. Louis. Years(30?) ago, we used to go to a guy's house

house. He was Mexican and had a restaurant in his basement. He did all the cooking and waited on you. It was open certain hours. I've heard rumors of others but never could pin them down. We used to go to another place that was a little more public but a lady had a small restaurant attached to her home. Some days she would be in her pajamas cooking breakfast with her dog walking around.

 
Wow! That sounds awesome! My friend Michael is behind a project called

One Pot and through him, I've dined in an art gallery under works titled, "Bad People Have to Eat Too." And I went to a rousing Sadar last year with these two Jewish guys from NYC. Fabulous. He's hosted dinners in art glass studios to greenspaces between the freeway divide. (See the Gourmet article with him below).

Did you see the No Reservations dinner with Tony Bourdain where he dined underground in Seattle? I put that dinner together.

Love, love, love underground dining. In fact, I've got one coming up on Monday. smileys/wink.gif

http://www.gourmet.com/restaurants/2009/01/foraging-for-dinner-with-michael-hebb

 
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