Going to a French-themed dinner party for 19 tonight...and made the

T

traca

Well-known member
Chocolate Terrine from Thomas Keller's "Bouchon" cookbook. To make thing easier, instead of slicing the terrine for serving, I used 3 oz. portions in individual ramekins. Then tonight, I'll top with whipped cream and candied nibs.

Okay, this recipe needs to chill for 12 hours so I started making it last night. Then I realized I needed cocoa powder--and after a quick search on the net, Dutch processed would not do. (It's too acidic and would throw the balance off. Learned something new.) So off to the store I went...again!

At the end of the day, I have to say, this recipe is brilliant! I love being able to make it ahead and it's got the most amazing flavor. I'm totally sprung on this recipe. It's easy to throw together and delivers a big impact.

Whether using a terrine or a ramekin, I recommend keeping the portions small. It's quite decadent.

Chocolate Terrine with from "Bouchon"

Canola oil

12 ounces bittersweet chocolate, such as Valrhona Manjari (64%), chopped

8 1/2 ounces unsalted butter

4 large eggs, separated

4 large egg yolks

1 1/3 cups confectioner's sugar

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (I used Sharffenberger)

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon heavy cream

Lightly oil a 12 by 4 by 3 inch high (6 cup capacity) terrine mold; the oil will anchor the plastic wrap. Line the terrine with plastic wrap and set aside.

Melt the chocolate and butter together in a large double boiler over hot, not simmering, water, stirring from time to time. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

When the chocolate feels just warm to the touch, stir in the 8 egg yolks until well combined. Sift together the confectioner's sugar and cocoa powder and stir into the chocolate mixture.

With an electric mixer, whip the heavy cream to soft peaks; refrigerate while you beat the egg whites. With clean beaters, beat the egg whites and granulated sugar in a large bowl until soft peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, then fold in the whipped cream. Pour into the terrine mold and refrigerate, covered with plastic for at least 12 hours. (The terrine can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

 
Sounds great,Traca, but are you saying the Dutched cocoa is too acidic? Because natural cocoa

is the more acidic of the two - Dutched is treated with an alkali, which reduces the acidity.

 
I'm glad you asked about that...I could be reading this website wrong...

I'm still learning so I could have been mistaken.

The website says, "When natural cocoa (an acid) is used in recipes calling for baking soda (an alkali), it creates a leavening action that causes the batter to rise when placed in the oven."

Referring to Dutch processed cocao, it said, "Because it is neutral and does not react with baking soda, it must be used in recipes calling for baking powder, unless there are other acidic ingredients in sufficient quantities used."

Based on those two things, I just assumed that the alkali in Dutch processed cocao was a neutralizer of the natural acid in cocoa.

I could sure use a lesson if I'm looking at this from the wrong perspective. I'm a wanna be baker, but haven't explored this topic much.

Here's a link to the website I referred to:
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Q-A/CocoaTypes.htm

 
That's exactly what I'm saying, but it's the opposite of what you said in your original post-Quote:

"Then I realized I needed cocoa powder--and after a quick search on the net, Dutch processed would not do. (It's too acidic and would throw the balance off)..."
It sounds like you're saying the Dutched is too acidic - unless you're referring to the recipe itself. Please clarify!

 
Chocolate Chat

Joanie...do you have a Trader Joe's in your area? They have Valrhona there at really great prices. Otherwise,I'd say any fine grade bittersweet chocolate will work.

The more I learn about chocolate, it's amazing people taste it just like wine. They talk about the terrior and the fruity notes. I'm still behind the curve and lingering on the side of fascination...so when an author says specifically what kind of chocolate they recommend, I'm deliriously happy. Pierre Herme's books also make recommendations and he favors the Valrhona brand as well.

If you want to order chocolate online, I've seen people have good results with Chocosphere.
http://chocosphere.com/

Not sure if this would help, but I had a chat with Jerry Traunfeld at the Herbfarm about what kind of chocolates they use and here's what he said:

"We use three brands of chocolate - scharffenberger because I like the flavor, but it's the hardest to work with and breaks much easier than other chocolates. Don't know why, but I've talked to people there about it.
We use cocoa barry for couvetures. They make many different types of chocolate with beans originating from different countries. We use Saint Domingue. We also use callebaut white and gianduja. Callebaut is a good moderately priced brand that is very easy to work with."

 
You are so right!!! I'm sorry. I guess in my bleary eyed state last night...

I had them reversed. Thanks for setting me straight. All I knew is the new bag I bought from Penzey's wasn't going to work! Whew. What a fun discussion...though I am sorry about my confusion.

 
No problem! It's the end result that counts anyway, right? smileys/smile.gif BTW, it really wouldn't matter which

kind of cocoa is used in this recipe, since there's no leavening involved. So one can use whichever one prefers.

Scharffen Berger is my favorite natural cocoa, and Droste is my favorite Dutched cocoa. I've never cared for either of the Penzey's, and actually prefer Hershey's natural over the Penzey's natural. This is after doing a lot of taste tests, so I've narrowed it down to my own preferences. Of course, get 10 people involved in a chocolate/cocoa discussion, and there will be 10 different opinions!

 
This UK site has well-written, in depth reviews of many of the top chocolates. I don't agree with

many of their ratings, but then again, I rarely agree with most ratings, in general. For example, I happen to prefer Ghirardelli, (their "baking bars"), both the 60% bittersweet and the semi-sweet for baking, ganaches, etc., and they are usually looked down upon in the industry (although I think the site I'm linking you to gave them some good ratings). After many chocolate taste tests (on flourless chocolate cakes, ganaches, etc), I found Ghirardelli the easiest to work with and yielded the best overall results. I don't like to eat these two particular bars out of hand, but for baking, they're perfect for me.

In general, the 60% range is the best to work with if the recipe calls for bittersweet - once you get into the 70% and over, there could be drier results. I highly recommend Alice Medrich's "Bittersweet", because it not only has great recipes, but she shows you how to modify each one to accomodate the various cacao percentages. Not only does the sugar need to be modified, but so does the fat, and the amount of chocolate.

(BTW, the site I'm linking you to also has a forum).

http://www.seventypercent.com/chocop/

 
Thanks for the cocoa powder recs...I'd just got a Penzey's shipment

of the Dutch processed, but went out and bought the Droste instead. I'm going to give it a try on a cake tonight. The good news is...Droste is even more readily available. No special order required. smileys/smile.gif

 
Thanks for the link. I can't wait to check it out. BTW...last night at the party

there was a VERY accomplished pastry guy in attendance. He recommend taking a class from a local guy who actually brings in all the top chocolates...and does structured chocolate tastings. So you get to try several of each varieties side by side. He said it was a real eye opener to try 8 semi-sweet chocolates at a time. And even more of a significant contrast was to try several white chocolates together. Hopefully that class will be offered in the spring. I'd like to check it out.

 
Hey Traca, I always like to add a little espresso powder to chocolate cakes to enhance

the chocolate flavor. It especially goes well with Dutched cocoa - gives it a kick. Try it out!

 
I've never been to an official chocolate tasting, but have done some on my own. I've noticed that

each bar seriously affects the one that follows, even though I clear my palate in between. But when I try each bar hours apart from the other, it really makes a difference, and I can taste it for what it is. I'd be curious as to what you think after you go to a formal tasting. You'll have to post a full report!

 
It's funny you mentioned palate cleansing, as I was going to ask you about this.

So there is no water cracker equivalent for chocolate as with wine tasting?

 
I've heard of that...I'll have to give it a try. Thanks! Question:

Have you ever used Felchlin Swiss cocoa powder or know where I can get it? There's a local pastry chef who uses it and I love the deep dark color. I'd love to lay my hands on some but her source locally only sells to the trade. (I know...I could ask her to order me some, but she's busy working hard on keeping her new business together. If I can find another source, I'd rather go that route.) I'd love to find a great source.

 
I loved the terrine. I especially loved it as it came closer to room temperature. (m)

I tried it straight out of the fridge, again midway to room temp, and then at room temp. Although I don't know how the terrine would slice at room temp (it was soft), I did like the flavor better at room temp so the ramekins was a good choice. I'll be making this again for sure!

Here's pictures from our dinner party:
http://mouthfulsfood.com/forums//index.php?s=&showtopic=2578&view=findpost&p=779038

The "terrine" is in the white ramekin.

http://mouthfulsfood.com/forums//index.php?s=&showtopic=2578&view=findpost&p=779038

 
Apparently they do serve crackers and water as palate cleansers. I read in a book

by Sherry Yard that she acutally requires her staff to carry toothbrushes with them at work. Apparently because it's easy to blow out your palate when working with pastry, she encourages her staff to brush their teeth frequently---especially their tounge. Interesting.

I did go to another chocolate tasting last year. It wasn't a side by side comparison (bittersweet vs. bittersweet, etc.). The tasting included a lecture on cocoa and how it's harvested, then the tasting went from milk to dark and finished with a truffle tasting. I thought it was very well done.

I'd imagine this other tasting would probably take into account the varieties and we'd do them in order to highlight different nuances. It should be interesting. They haven't posted the spring schedule yet...hopefully they offer it.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top