Honey I'm Home!---Plus More On Puff Paste

kyheirloomer

Well-known member
I’m back from my Florida trip. And ohmigosh! You people have been busy. Almost the entire first page is new postings, so I have a lot of catch-up to do.

But I promised, before leaving, that I’d start a discussion on puff paste. So here goes.

Technically called pate a choux, puff paste can be made either sweet or savory. Sweet uses includes such things as cream puffs, éclairs, and profiteroles. When made savory, the finished pastries are called gougeres.

Here’s a basic recipe:

In a saucepan, bring to boil 1 cup cold water, 1 stick butter cut in pieces, 1 tsp salt, and a dash of pepper. Add 1 cup flour all at once and cook the paste over low heat, stirring well, until it forms a ball and leaves the sides of the pan.

Remove the paste from the heat and beat in 4 eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add ¼ pound grated Swiss or Gruyere cheese and a pinch of dry mustard. Let the mixture cool.

For a sweet version, milk is usually substituted for the water, and various amounts of sugar are added. Plus, of course, the cheese is left out.

In my original post I included a recipe for rye puffs, with uses half regular flour and half rye flour, along with a corned-beef filling to create mini-Reubens. Obviously, all sorts of variations on that theme can be run.

Choux paste is most often baked, at high heat. 400 degrees F. is the average temperature used. In the above recipe I bake for ten minutes at 425, lower the temp to 375, and bake another 20 minutes. But I’m piping them into larger sizes (see below). In the rye puff recipe I originally posted, straight 400 degrees is used for 18-20 minutes, which is more typical.

Pate a choux can also be deep fried (which is how beignets are made). Or it can even be boiled (as in the Austrian apricot dumpling). Boiling produces a totally different texture, however, and the paste doesn’t puff up.

When baking, the paste is dropped by spoonful onto a cookie sheet. Depending on desired size, anything from a teaspoon to a tablespoon can be used. A less known technique is to use a pastry bag and large tip to pipe the paste into various shapes. You could, for instance, make rounds, triangles, crescents, even rectangles.

A really nice party-tray is to make various shapes, then use different fillings for each one. For instance, you could put my Gorgonzola Chicken Salad in the rounds; deviled ham in the triangles; tuna in the crescents; and pimento spread in the rectangles. Make one batch with the rye puffs and corned-beef filling, and you have quite a spread.

While nice anytime, this sort of platter lends itself especially well to a luncheon or tea. And is perfect for a buffet-type party.

Piping the paste also lets you build larger puffs, both by the dimensions and by piping a second layer onto the first. By doing this you can create puffs large enough to serve as a main course or full dessert.

 
Nice article, KY. I like the rye idea. Shirley Corriher has a version with less yolks

and more whites...to "dry" them out better.

Also you can freeze them unfilled, which is a nice option.

 
Great instructions, I almost feel like

the clutzy "dough" person I am, that I could make these. Would you mind posting your Gorgonzola Chicken Salad recipe? Thanks!

 
Dawn, I had considered

mention ing that one nice thing about pate a choux is that even folks who otherwise can't bake have little trouble with it. But then I thought it was obvious.

So, yeah! Even "clutzy dough" people can make choux paste.

One thing that might help, too. When you add the eggs the paste turns shiny. Beat it until it turns dull, again, before adding the next egg.

My Gorgonzola Chicken Salad was originally designed as a stuffing for small sweet peppers, such as Sweet Apple and Aji Flor. But it turns out it's a perfect filling for gougeres:

Gorgonzola Chicken Salad

2 large chicken breasts, poached & diced small
1 cup red onion, chopped & caramelized
1/2 red bell pepper, chopped fine
2 oz Gorgonzola, crumbled
3/4 cup mayonnaise
Salt & pepper to taste

Mix all ingredients. Store in fridge until needed.
If using to stuff peppers or other veggies, dust with paprika.

Marilyn: Can you post Shirley's recipe? I'd like to take a look at it. Thanx.

 
My favorite thing to do with Pate a Choux is to make Pommes Dauphine

If you add 6 oz of pate a choux per pound of Pommes Duchesse (1 lb cooked riced potatoes, 1 egg yolk, 1/2 oz butter) and mix well, you can use a pastry bag with a large smooth or star tip to pipe this out into deep fat for Pommes Dauphine (potato puffs).

They are so easy, and so amazing. You can also pipe shapes onto parchment paper and slide them into the fat like cruellers. The French fleur-de-lis makes a nice presentation. Peel the paper off during the cooking process when you're ready to turn.

As you squeeze the pastry bag with one hand, use a knife dipped in the fryer to cut two inch lengths off as they exit the bag. Don't splash yourself with the hot fat (350 degrees F).

Pommes Lorette: Add 1 oz of grated Parmesan Cheese per pound of Pommes Dauphine.

Here is the basic recipe:

Ingredients:
2 large baking potatoes, peeled and quartered
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup flour
2 eggs
1 dash pepper
Salad oil for deep frying


Directions:

In small saucepan cook potatoes in water to cover with salt until tender, about 25 minutes. Drain, reserving 2/3 cup potato water. Dry out potatoes over low heat to rid excess moisture. Mash potatoes. Do not add milk.

In medium saucepan combine reserved water (or 1/2 cup water) and butter or margarine. Heat over medium heat until water is boiling and butter has completely melted. Reduce heat. Add flour all at once. Stir briskly with wooden spoon until mixture leaves sides of pan and forms a ball. Remove from heat; cool slightly. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Blend in potatoes and pepper.

In deep-fat fryer or deep saucepot, heat 1 1/2 - 2" oil to 375 F on deep fat thermometer. Drop batter by rounded tablespoonfuls or by #20 ice cream scoop into hot oil. (Puffs double in bulk, so fry only a few ata time.) Fry 8 minutes, until puffed and golden brown. Remove with slotted spoon, drain on paper towels. Keep warm in 200 F oven.

 
..and my favorite Pate a Choux recipe is for this many times T&T Gougere

when I catered I used Pate a Choux often to make small puffs and filled them with savory salads- chicken salad with curry, lobster salad, etc- but over all, this is my favorite use for the wonderful Pate a Choux:

GOUGERE

6 to 8 servings

1 cup milk
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, cut into pieces
1 cup all purpose flour
1 scant teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
4 eggs
1 cup grated Swiss or Gruyere cheese
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
2-1/2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon paprika

Grease outside edge of 7- to 8-inch straight-sided cake pan or smooth-sided souffle dish. Place in middle of greased large baking sheet.

Combine milk and butter in 2-quart saucepan and bring to boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to low, add flour, salt and pepper all at once and stir vigorously with wooden spoon until mixture is smooth and leaves sides of pan, forming a ball, about 1 minute. Turn off heat and add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Continue beating, using spoon or hand mixer, until dough is shiny and smooth. Add Swiss or Gruyere cheese and mustards and blend well.

Fill large pastry bag fitted with plain 1/2 to 3/4 inch tip with dough. Pipe continuous loops of dough 2 inches wide onto baking sheet as close to outer edge of pan as possible (use pan as guide). Refrigerate at least 1 hour or overnight.

Preheat oven to 400 degress F. Remove Gougere from refrigerator and bake 30 to 35 minutes, or until puffed and deep golden brown. Brush with mayonnaise and sprinkle with Parmesan and paprika. Let cool 5 minutes before transferring to board or serving platter. Slice and serve warm.

 
Ina Garten uses her food processor to process the eggs into the cooked paste. Works great.

Just dump the cooked paste into the processor and add all 4 eggs at once and hit start. Easy peasy.

 
And of course, the ever popular Crocumbuche

I still giggle when I think about the time Martha Stewart had Julia Child on her program to make Crocumbuche. Julia set about methodically explaining technique, and Martha out did herself in trying to show-up Julia when she made Julia, who was not a pastry chef and never pretended to be one, build a Crocumbuche with her. Julia's was lop-sided, Martha's was straight and even. But Julia just had a great time and laughed as Martha, ever so politely, pointed out the differences. Too fun.

 
It's so fun visiting an old familiar favorite like this...

we haven't had a discussion on pate a choux in awhile. This reminds me of the time I was the guest chef at a local winery's bistro and for dessert I scheduled a totally decadent chocolate eclair. We had great fun with the architecture in the presentation. ; )

Something I like to do with the eclair filling is to do a Crème Bavaroise flavored with vanilla, lemon, and rose water. The flavor is so unexpected and unusual.

 
To Each His Own

I just can't see dirtying up the food processor for something that takes no effort to do my hand. It would take more time and energy to clean the thing afterwards.

 
No, No, No....

you can't make me talk.

I won't, I won't, I won't.

Well, maybe a hint: Tilting does not begin to describe it.

 
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