Now and Then: How we describe food

marilynfl

Moderator
While in PA, I picked up a bunch of old Gourmets, and by old I mean 1973 issues. Some of you weren't ever born yet. I had never read a Gourmet back then, although I do remember checking The Joy of Cooking out from the library (some things never change). The only magazines I subscribed to were Horizon and Connoisseur.

Here is a snippet from the article: "The Making of a Luncheon"

by Daniel V. Thompson.

(To bring you up to speed, Daniel and his wife have invited an old friend who is apparently an international something or other for a simple afternoon luncheon while she is in the USA. The luncheon expands from 4 to 8 guests. They have one day to shop and prepare the meal.)

"...Not too much remained to be done in the morning of the luncheon. There was the hothouse Telegraph cucumber to be sliced thinly on the mandoline and a dressing to be prepared with heavy cream, tarragon vinegar, olive oil and snippets of chives. There was a hollandaise to be made, the timbales to be poached, the subrics to be sautéed, the tarte patisserie to be assembled and glazed, the wine to be chilled, the table, to be set and the terrace outside to be furbished for use if the weather provided kind. A sliver platter for the mousse went into the freezer along with the gin. Almost with regret I removed a section of the skin from the beautifully firm codfish and brushed the flesh with a clear, white-wine fish aspic to give it a slight luster. Then I checked the menu:

Stuffed Eggs

Spinach Timbales

Poached Cod Bellevue

Sauce Raifort aux Noix

Salmon Mousse in Aspic

Mayonnaise, Sauce Messine

Cucumber Salad

Sliced Baked Ham

Mustard Sauce

Rice Salad

Sliced Tomates

Tarte Patisserie aux Fraises

Marrons Glaces.

The story continues to a happy ending in which the author states that friends make the meal, not the food. But the food helps.

Now contrast THAT with THIS:

Later that day I was watching a Bon Appetit video where Claire Saffitz tries to duplicate and improve upon Ben and Jerry Ice Cream. The episode was a success and everyone agreed that her versions were much better. But the commentary by other staffers is what caught my attention. After tasting a sample, a female BA test kitchen staffer praised it by saying "That's f**ked Up!!"

Oh. Apparently High Praise indeed.

Then a male staff member samples it and saids "No. That's super f**king crazy."

Then back to the female: "F**king nailed it!"

Huh.

By the way, Bon Appetit's Editor in Chief Adam Rapoport, was there too, sampling away. Never blinked.

So on the same day...within a few hours, I READ the story above (and realized I would NEVER cook like that, but appreciated the hard work) and then WATCHED a video making a simple ice cream base which I can do in my sleep--and realized I would NEVER describe it like that.

Has our vocabulary degraded that much in less than 50 years?

(Jump to 25 minutes into the video to hear the tasters reactions.)

 
First, I think you DO cook like that and well beyond. Second:

The language of today is just plain stupid. I feel sad for people who have such limited vocabularies and for whom every 'sentence' they mumble must have a word starting with F. I have some youngish friends who actually think it's a sign of stupidity and coach their kids to believe so as well.

Yes, our language has disintegrated so significantly. And again, I think it is a sad reflection of our evolution as a society.

I go for walks on popular routes and actually have to stop and let young people pass me because I cannot stand hearing LIKE inserted into every sentence, once, twice, maybe thrice. I do worry about our future if these people are indicative of the folks that will be looking after me shortly.

So many kids seem unable to think creatively, problem-solve or even listen for understanding. There are some schools here that are changing their curricula ums, to bring in programs that will teach students to problem-solve.

On another note....I do remember the old magazines. It was somewhere between 1972 and 74 that my husband bought me my first food magazine. I think it was called Epicure. And I think that it lead to BA, somehow, either with the staff or the same financial backing.

Okay, I went way off the path. I'm kicking away the soap box.

 
Oh, oh, I agree about the use of, uh, more foul language. It is lazy. One of my kids tried to . . .

tell me it was a sign of high intelligence to use words "formerly known as curse" as fillers.What a joke. I call "language" when they go at it crazy.

I say it is sheer laziness. And lack of reading and vocabulary expansion that comes from reading.

 
My MIL gave me a subscription to Gourmet, probably around 1970

I loved reading through it, but rarely found a recipe I could actually use.
Part of the problem was that it was too high-fallutin'. and the other problem was that ingredients called for were not so readily available, unless you lived in NYC!

I was also put off but the format of the recipes. Ingredients were not listed at the top, but you had to read through the entire thing and take notes, so you didn't miss the "tablespoon of whatever" half way through.

Thankfully, they got better, but I switched to BA about then.

 
I've got nine issues from 1973. Anyone who wants one, ping me

at

mef dot boo dot g mail dot com with your address and I'll drop it in the mail.

Their international travel articles are still good, although I'm sure nothing that was there then is there now...unless it's the Louvre. I love reading the You Asked For It section.

The full-page color ads are almost all booze (not wine, either).

 
A shame, because she is actually very funny. I grew up on Fannie Farmer and Erma Bombeck. My

love of humorous cooking tales is derived from them.

 
This is weird: all the rude stuff dies out after the first few paragraphs. Maybe. . .

the author was going purposely for shock value and the attract?

Vocabulary; use of different choices in language and words. . . This article could have been so much better.

 
People don't seem to know what elegance is anymore. It's all so trashy.

This is the sort of person I would see dining at Burger King and being tossed out of Taillevent.

 
It is the context. I am hardly a prude

There used to be a gal here in town that wrote a food column called “Cheap Bastard” with cheap meal restaurant reviews. She was profane and funny and she made some great “niche” finds, but her column was in an “alternative” paper.

I still remember Bon Appetit as lovely and elegant.

 
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