In defense of Vienna...(and a hello from New Hampshire)
Still on vacation in New England. We had a lovely visit with Judy and Rich, got to see Judy's beautiful pottery, a wonderful lunch in Lowell, Mass, and then Judy and Rich introduced us to their Mirto (myrtle berry) liqueur which was out of this world.
But on to Vienna. I was really surprised to hear people saying how expensive Vienna is. I've been there many times and I've always had wonderful experiences without breaking the budget. Granted, I don't dine at the Sacher or Imperial hotels or the Steiereck. There are so many little family restaurants where the locals go that serve amazing Austrian cuisine at very affordable prices. Take a trip out to the edge of the Vienna Woods to the Mayer Heuiger on the Pfarrplatz, go through the buffet and select all sorts of wonderful Austrian delicacies, drink the local wine under the stars in the garden, listen to the strolling Violinist playing Lehar and Strauss, and you'll have a memorable evening for about $30 for 2 people. (OK, a little more than that now with the dollar being so low).
The Esterhazy Keller, licensed under the reign of Maria Theresia, just around the corner from the Graben (head down the Graben away from St. Stephens to the end, turn right, then left onto Naglergasse, take the first left and the entrance to the Esterhazy is down the stairs on your left) offers a wonderful labrinth of cellars, a fine buffet and wine bar where you can put together a memorable meal for $5-7/person. Or a fantastic old Imperial days Sunday dinner of Tafelspitz with all the trimmings for about $16 at the "Zum Basilisken" in the Schoenlaterngasse behind St. Stephens. You'll think you went back in time when you enter this amazing old local haunt. Or go out to the Prater and dine in one of the old Biergarten (Stelzer--a crispy-crusted roasted pork joint is a favorite local specialty).
It is possible to eat wonderful food in Vienna without spending a fortune. You just have to get out of the tourist loop and eat with the locals.
And I never stay in hotels, but in the wonderful, and much cheaper, pensions and zimmers where you might just find a nice Viennese grandmother ready to make your stay memorable. My last trip to Vienna I was calling Frau Wolf, our hostess, "Oma" (southern german for grandma) by the end of my stay.
But I do agree, Sachertorte is not worth the bother. It was made famous by a vicious law suit about the naming rights, and by a lot of marketing. Go to Demel's on the Kohlmarkt and you'll taste real Viennese sweets at their finest.
Now, off to Ogunquit, Maine for dinner at Arrows!