Dutched vs. Natural Cocoas -- such a great explanation of the acidic properties!

This is edited material about cocoa (with Cooks Illustrated being the primary source).

Dutched vs. Natural Cocoas

Life used to be simpler -- all we had was Plain Cocoa (in the brown can with the PA city name on it) and we used it for everything, including great American classics like brownies, fudge, and devil's food cake. But then came modern sophistication and new desserts and truffles, and hand-dipped chocolate and European-style baked goods. So -- now we have to actually think more about cocoa. How is this powder related to chocolate and what are the differences between regular and dutched cocoas?

Cocoa is produced from chocolate liquor the professional term for completely unsweetened baking chocolate. Chocolate liquor is made from cocoa beans scooped from the pods of the tropical cacao tree. The beans are fermented, roasted, shelled, and then ground into a molten paste. This paste is half fat (cocoa butter) and half cocoa solids; nothing else is added. The paste is hardened in molds and can be remelted for use in baking.

Cocoa powder is chocolate liquor that has been pressed to remove half to three-quarters of its fat and then pulverized. A hydraulic press, designed by the Dutchman C. J. Van Houten in the nineteenth century, removes fat while leaving solids behind. Cocoa has a strong chocolate flavor and is easy to incorporate into other ingredients because it has a lower fat content, it decreases the likelihood of the batter or mix breaking or separating.

Is Dutched Cocoa Made Only in Holland?

In addition to designing the cocoa press, Van Houten also developed a process to reduce the natural acidity in chocolate and make it more palatable. Untreated chocolate is mildly acidic, (with a pH value of between 5.2 and 5.6) about the same as black coffee. By adding a small amount of an alkaline solution (usually potassium carbonate) to either the shelled cocoa beans or chocolate liquor, Van Houten was able to raise the pH to about 7 (neutral) or slightly higher. This technique, called "dutching" or "Dutch processing," has two main side effects:

1. darkening the color of the cocoa,

2. mellowing its flavor

Dutched cocoa was thought to dissolve in liquid better than undutched, but has since been proven to be false.

Today, European cocoas are generally dutched while American supermarket cocoas are not, although American manufacturers make dutched cocoa for professional use.

The effect of dutched cocoa on flavor is the most important factor for the home cook. The general rule is that Dutched cocoas taste better in liquid products (hot chocolate, ice cream, etc.) Part of this may be from just the appearance of a item with dutched cocoa in it since dutched cocoas tend to have a richer, warmer brown color, while natural cocoa items are usually paler or washed-out-looking. However, because the natural acids in the chocolate have been neutralized, the flavor of dutched cocoa is generally considered to be more mellow in blind tastings.

What's Best For Baking?

Dutched and natural (American-style) cocoa have very different pH values, which usually affects which leavener is used in a recipe and its amount. This is one reason why you should never just substitute one cocoa for another without also changing the leavener.

For example, cakes with natural cocoa (which is acidic) usually call for baking soda (which is alkaline) because the acid and base react together to produce carbon dioxide. Recipes with Dutched cocoa (which is neutral or slightly alkaline) usually require baking powder -- which contains both an acid and alkali.

Another issue is familiarity. Desserts, like brownies, have typically been made with natural cocoa. This unique taste is what we grew up with, so we expect brownies or other baked products need to have the unique "flavor quality" of natural cocoa to taste like we remember them. The amount of sugar and fat in the recipes also will affect the actual tasting flavor of the cocoa. Recipes with more sugar and fat favor the assertive natural cocoas since the chocolate flavor needs to cut through the taste 'noise' of fat and sweetness). Of course, you still need to use a good quality cocoa whichever type you use!

So for baking American-style cocoa is usually the best. For other desserts or liquids, Dutched cocoa may give a better taste. Usually though, I've found that most people will only notice the chocolate if you ask them about it. Anything with a "big" chocolate flavor should be so distracting that it is almost impossible to analyze!

 
B

barbara-in-va

Well-known member
Hi Charlie, I was just going thru some of mom's old, handwritten recipes....

And I found several cookie recipes. I have VERY vague memories of these and would like to try them for myself. Unfortunately her instructions consits basically of just a list of ingredients. I am hoping that if you have a minute you might know "the rest of the recipe"? Here is what she has written for one of the recipes:

Anisette Cookies
4 eggs
1 C sugar
1/2 C oil

Cream together with mixer then by hand.

2 C flour
2 t baking powder
2 t vanilla
4 t anise

400° oven for 10 minutes. Then shape, return and brown to your own taste.

First, I am not sure what she means by "anise" . At 4 t I am guessing extract vs oil? Then, I am at a total lose for how to bake them, do you think this is a biscotti?

Another recipe is even less instructive:

Strofili
2 C flour
1/2 stick margarine
4-5 eggs
1 stp B.P. (I think that is wat it says)
pinch of salt

Beat eggs well and add to dry ingredients with melted margarine.

This is written on the back of an envelope with a post mark of 1977. It appears to be in my grandmother's writing, guess she jotted it down for mom. Is this the little fried balls that are dressed in honey, shaped into a cone and sprinkled with colored non-perils?

What a kick to find these! If you have a minute and can give me any guidence I certainly would appreciate it immensely.

Thank you and Merry Christmas!
Barbara

 
Hi Barb-the first cookie is problaby biscotti-REC: Anise Biscotti...

but the temp and time seems way off.

The one I use is similiar:

Biscotti All'anice

Recipe By :Nick Malgieri
Serving Size : 24

3 Eggs
2 teaspoons Anise extract
3/4 cup Sugar
1 pinch Salt
1 1/2 cups All-purpose flour
1/4 cup Cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon Baking powder

PREHEAT OVEN TO 350F. Combine the eggs, extract, sugar and salt in a mixing bowl or the bowl of an electric mixer and whip with a hand mixer set at high speed or in a heavy duty mixer fitted with the whip. Continue whipping until the mixture is very light and increased in volume, 6-7 minutes. While the egg mixture is whipping, combine the flour, cornstarch and baking powder and stir to mix. Remove the whipped eggs from the mixer and sift over the flour mixture in three additions, folding it in after
each addition with a rubber spatula. The batter will lose most of its air and become rather stiff. Pipe the batter, using a pastry bag with a 3/4-inch opening, but no tube, onto a jelly roll pan lined with parchment paper or buttered wax paper. Pipe two logs about 1 1/2 inches wide and the length of the pan. Bake the logs about 20 minutes, until they are well risen and golden.
Remove from oven and place logs on a cutting board to cool about 10 minutes. Using a sharp, serrated knife, slice the logs diagonally at 1/2-inch intervals. Place the biscotti cut side down on the pan and return them to the oven for about 10-15 minutes, until they color lightly on the cut surfaces. Cool the biscotti on the pans and store them in a tin between layers of wax paper

The second is indeed stuffoli (the little fried balls of dough).

 
Thanks you Charlie, it is very kind of you to help me with these old recipes!...

Now I want to try them both just for the family memories if nothing else.

Thank you so much!
Barbara

 
REC: Strufoli a/k/a Italian honey balls

Hi Barbara!
I have several stufoli recipes to post for you below and if I recall correctly, one of them was provided to me by Charlie when I was trying to find stufoli recipes several years ago on Gail's recipe swap. I just love strufoli and remembered it from childhood and couldn't remember the name, the spelling or how to find a recipe for these little honey balls!! Well, here are 3 recipes, give these a try and I hope that they are as you remember!

Struffoli
(Tiny Honey-Covered Fritters)
From: Mario Batali Holiday Food

These little fritters are the most beloved item on the Christmas table. Traditionally they are made several days before Christmas Eve and given to guests throughout the week, often presented in a golden horn of plenty made from bread dough. At my restaurant Babbo we place them on the center table so guests can help themselves on the way out.
Makes: 50 to 60
• 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 6 egg yolks
• 6 eggs
• Grated zest of 1 lemon and 1 orange
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon limoncello
• 4 cups canola oil, for frying
• 2 cups honey
• Juice and zest of 1 lemon
• Confectioners' sugar, for dusting
• Candied orange or lemon peel or sprinkles, for garnish (optional)
In a mixer bowl, combine the flour, egg yolks, egg, zests, salt, and limoncello and mix well to form a firm dough, 8 to 10 minutes. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. When the dough has rested, remove from fridge and cut into golf ball-size pieces. Roll each golf ball into a 1/2-inch-thick dowel and cut each dowel into 1/2-inch pieces. Roll each piece between palms into a ball. Repeat with the remaining dough.
Heat the oil in a 12- to 14-inch skillet with at least 3-inch sides to 375 degrees F. Drop balls in to cover about half of the surface of the oil and cook until dark golden brown. Use a spider or slotted spoon to turn them regularly; they will puff up while cooking. Remove when cooked to a tray covered with paper towels and drain well. This should make at least five batches, so be patient.
When all of the struffoli are cooked, heat the honey, lemon juice, and zest together in a wide 6- to 8-quart saucepan until quite warm, about 150 degrees F, and substantially thinner. Add the struffoli and stir carefully until well coated. Remove from heat and allow to cool 5 minutes in the pan, stirring regularly.
Pour out onto a large serving tray in the form of either a pyramid or a ring. Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar and any other choice of garnish. The struffoli should last a week or as long as your guests allow

ITALIAN SFRAPPOLE

2 cups all purpose flour
2 eggs
1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons rum
2 tablespoons chilled sweet white wine
Oil for frying
Powdered sugar or honey, to finish

Place the flour on a wooden board and make a
well in the center. Break the eggs into the
well and beat lightly with a fork. Add the
butter, sugar, rum and wine and mix
thoroughly with the eggs. Using your hands,
gradually incorporate the flour, starting
from the inside of the well. Work the dough
into a ball. Cover and refrigerate for 20
to 25 minutes.

Roll out the dough on a lightly floured
surface until 1/4 inch thick. Using a
pastry wheel or sharp knife, cut the dough
into strips 3/4 inch wide and 6 or 7 inches
long. Tie the strips in knots or pin in
bows.

Pour oil into a large saucepan or deep fryer
until 2 inches deep. Heat the oil to 375
F. Using a slotted spoon, lower the bows a
few at a time into the hot oil. Turn the
bows while cooking. When golden brown on
both sides, remove and drain on paper
towels. Arrange the bows on a platter and
dust with powdered sugar, or drizzle with
some honey.

Vogue Entertaining

Strufoli:
recipe cut in half or you would be there
rolling all day long;

4 eggs
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon margarine ( believe it or not)
2 1/2 cups flour
1/2 cup honey
candy sprinkles
bar of sweet chocolate

In a large bowl combine eggs, sugar vanilla,
cinnamon and margarine. Add flour a cup at a
time. The last 1/2 cup can be added as
necessary to make a smooth dough. Let sit in
bowl covered with a plate for 1/2 hour.
roll out portions of the dough into a long
snake. cut into 1/2 inch peices.
Haet about 2 1/2 inches of oil in heavy pan
and fry the balls a handful at a time. If you
have a fry basket, it will save time and
reduce the risk of a burn. Place pieces on
papewr towel to drain.
heat the honey until just undert the boiling
point. Place strufoli in a bowl and drizzle
with the honey tossing to coat well. Arrange
on a large platter and sprinkle with candy
sprinkles , shape into a Christmas tree or a
wreath and shave chocolate on top when cool.

 
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