Orchid, a friend of mine in Florida says he only gardens in winter because of the bugs
Do your tomatoes have tomato hornworms? These and all other caterpillars can be controlled with a bacteria culture called B.t. Look for a brand of caterpillar killer such as Safer and check to see if B.t. is the active ingredient. It works better than insecticide, and only kills caterpillars.
Aphids are best squirted off with plain water. It's tedious, but if you use insecticide it kills ALL the bugs, many of which eat aphids. The aphids recover quickly and then they have no predators, so you need more and more insecticide. If you don't use insecticides you should not have to buy ladybugs--they'll come on their own. It's actually their larvae that do most of the aphid-eating so you don't get instant results by releasing them.
In general, plants get bad infestations when they're stressed by uneven watering. Improving your soil with organic material helps it both drain better and retain water--so the plants have a more even moisture supply. Healthy plants have some resistance to insects.
Not so with snails--they eat the healthiest plants they can find. The trick with them is to fight them every two weeks. Whether you pick them by hand early in the morning, or use an organic slug/snail bait, or a conventional poison, it must be done every two weeks, because the snails you kill have just laid eggs, which will hatch in a week and be full size snails in a month! You need to get this new batch before they are old enough to reproduce, so another attack in two weeks is essential to cut down on the population
I hope some of that helps. The idea with organic methods is to maintain a healthy diversity of bugs so no one bug can move in and take over, concentrate on healthy soil for higher yields, and tolerate a certain amount of that yield being lost to bugs.
Here's a dry but informative website for pest control in California; perhaps something like it is available for Florida:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/index.html
