Rec: San Francisco Cioppino
This is probably the best known version of the dish, originally from Reed Hearon at Rose Pistola Restaurant:
Rose Pistola Spicy Cioppino
(pronounced: chuh-PEE-noh)
1 1-3/4-pound cooked whole Dungeness crab
1/3 c olive oil
1 c finely chopped onion
1 T chopped fresh marjoram
1 bay leaf
1 2-oz can anchovy fillets, drained & chopped
1/2 c chopped fresh parsley
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 T harissa or chili paste
2 c dry white wine
2 c fish stock or clam juice
2 c crushed tomatoes with puree
16 mussels, scrubbed & debearded
10 oz white fish (typically cod) cut into 3/4-inch pieces
1/2 lb cleaned squid, bodies cut into rings
1/2 lb uncooked large shrimp, peeled & deveined
Prep the crab:
Remove crab legs and cut at joints. Cut crab body into quarters; scrape out gills and intestines and discard.
Heat oil in large pot over high heat, add onion, marjoram and bay. Saute until onion becomes translucent, approx 2 minutes. Add the anchovies, parsley, garlic, harissa, saute until garlic becomes fragrant, approx 1 minute. Add crab and white wine. Reduce the heat and simmer for 4-5 minutes, add the stock and tomatoes. Inrease the heat and boil 5 minutes. Add the mussels, cook until the mussels open, 6-7 minutes (discard any that do not open). Add the cod, squid and shrimp, cook until the cod & shrimp are opaque in the center, about 4 minutes. Ladle into wide open bowls (deep soup bowls are perfect for this) and serve.
I can't find my version of cioppino, which I just made for a Katrina fundraiser last Fall, but I made a vegetarian base - served that with roasted vegetables drizzled with Stonehouse Olive Oil pressed with Blood Oranges (a local artisanal oil) - and then proceeded with the other half adding the traditional fish & shellfish. The traditional accompaniment is San Francisco sourdough bread and a great local wine (traditionally it was red in the dish and red in the glass).
The origin of cioppino is traced to San Francisco, and is alternately attributed to Northern Italian immigrants or Portugese immigrants. It's a sailor's dish, made with whatever is leftover from that day's catch, and can be made with red or white wine. It's about as "old San Francisco" as sourdough.
Why "Rose Pistola"? The story I've heard is that Rose was an Italian immigrant and well known in her then predominantly Italian neighborhood of North Beach.