RECIPE: REC: Zucchini Souffle from Richard Olney. The zucchini season has started--I love this recipe

RECIPE:

joe

Well-known member
for a special occasion (I owed my brother a dinner for doing our taxes). I've posted it before but it's worth a re-post. I usually only manage it once a year but since it's early in the season I will try to get it together again before the summer is over. I double the recipe to fit my 2-quart ring mold. The rest of the meal was simple--grilled pork chops with rosemary and garlic, smashed potatoes, green beans, strawberry shortcake.

ZUCCHINI PUDDING SOUFFLE

from Simple French Food fy Richard Olney

Much sturdier than a traditional souffle, it's baked once in a ring mold, cooled, unmolded, masked with sauce and cheese and baked again. It rises again and makes a dramatic presentation.

1 lb. zucchini

Salt

2 Tbs. butter

For the bechamel:

2 Tbs. butter

3 Tbs. flour

3/4 cup milk

3 eggs, separated

Pepper

Butter for the mold

2/3 cup tomato puree (canned or fresh tomatoes, seasoned with a pinch each of salt, pepper, sugar and herbs (I used thyme), stewed until thick, put through a sieve, then measured.

1 cup heavy cream (I use less)

A large handful of finely grated gruyere or Parmesan cheese

Grate the zucchini and toss it in a mixing bowl with salt. Let it sit for half an hour, then squeeze it in its bowl until it's swimming in liquid. Drain in a seive, then squeeze dry in a towel. Heat 2 Tbs. butter in a skillet and saute the zucchini over medium heat, tossing and spreading it out, for 7-8 minutes, until it is dry and starting to color.

Preheat the oven to 350*F. Generously butter a 1-quart savarin (ring) mold (or individual ramekins.)

Make the bechamel in the usual way, removing from heat as soon as it thickens. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a mixing bowl and whisk in the egg yolks one at a time. Stir in the zucchini.

Beat the egg whites until they stand in peaks. Stir a quarter of them into the zucchini mixture to lighten it, then put the rest of the egg whites on top of the mixture and fold them in with a rubber spatula. Pour into the buttered mold, filling no more than 3/4 full.

Bake in a bain-marie: Place the mold in a larger pan, put in the oven, and pour simmering water into the larger pan to come 2/3 up the sides of the mold. Bake about 25 minutes, or until the top is firm and springy to the touch. Remove from the oven and remove the mold from the water. Let cool at least 10 minutes and then unmold onto an ovenproof platter or shallow baking dish. (It will sink back down but will puff again when you re-bake it.)

Preheat the oven to 450*F.

Whisk together the tomatoes and cream and spoon just enough over the souffle to mask it. Sprinkle with the cheese. Bake for 20 minutes, or until puffed and well-browned. Serve immediately--it will hold its puff for several minutes--with remaining sauce.

 
Just search :"Richard Olney" and "Joe" here and you'll find most of the recipes.

I'm on my second copy.

 
Can you post the link to your search results, Joe? I am horrible at

searching here. Thanks!

 
Yes, it should be 1 cup. Here it is again--Chard Gratin.

CHARD GRATIN
Gratin de Blettes

from Lulu's Provencal Kitchen by Richard Olney

2 pounds Swiss chard
3 Tbs. olive oil
2 Tbs. butter
1 head garlic, cloves separated, peeled and chopped
Salt and pepper
2 tsp. flour
1 cup milk
A handful coarse dry bread crumbs (I use fresh)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Separate the green leafy parts of the chard from the thick ribs. Wash and drain each separately. Trim the ribs and cut into large dice. Cook the ribs in boiling water for 10 minutes. Add the greens and stir with a wooden spoon until the water returns to a boil. As soon as the greens are completely limp--a few seconds after the boil is reached--empty the pot into a colander and refresh the chard under cold water. Squeeze the mass of chard repeatedly in both hands to form a firm ball. (I squeeze it in a towel.) Chop it, slicing thin, give the ball a quarter turn and slice thin again.

Heat 2 tbs. of the oil and most of the butter in a skillet. Add garlic, and when the air is filled with its scent but before it begins to color, add the chard, salt and pepper. Stir over heat until it has lost all superficial moisture, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with the flour, stir well, and begin to add the milk, a little at a time, over a period of about 20 minutes, stirring and waiting until the chard absorbs each addition before adding more.

Preheat the oven to 375*F.

Process the mixture rapidly to form a coarse puree (I skip this step). Use the rest of the butter to coat a gratin dish. Pour the mixture into the dish and top with the crumbs. Drizzle with the rest of the olive oil.

Bake for about 30 minutes, or until golden.

Olney's notes: Lulu serves this often with roast meats, but also as a base on which to bake a boneless 2 to 3-inch-thick section of fish such as cod, monkfish, grouper or halibut, bread crumbs and olive oil sprinkled over the fish as well as the chard's surface, counting 20 to 30 minutes in the oven, depending on the thickness of the fish. As with all her baked fish, a slice of butter is placed on top to melt upon removing it from the oven. Lulu often adds a handful of stemmed, shredded raw sorrel leaves to the skillet along with the chopped chard.

My notes: I don't puree it--I just chop the chard well the first time.

 
Thanks for checking Dawn. I didn't actually do the search, I was just alluding to the fact

that I post so many of his recipes.

 
Lordy, what would you find if you entered "Julia Child" and "Joe?" The system might break.

 
Thank you! Probably intuitive if one makes enough bechamel. Clearly, I need to make more. smileys/smile.gif

You could probably do this with kale, too, right? (Maybe?)

 
No, it's a surprising amount of milk for the small amount of flour, and it is added gradually.

It's worth trying with kale--though in this case the chard stems are a big part of it. Kale stems don't have the same appeal.

 
Thanks for the reminder. I think of Olney's book as the Old Testament of the Bible, the (more)

precusor to Mastering the Art of French Cooking,the New Testament.
Olney was an editor/author of the Time Life Foods of the World series, another one of my favorite series when looking for authentic recipes.
I just used two of that series this weekend for meals.

 
That's a great analogy, though Olney's book came second it is definitely old school

I never tire of reading his curmudgeonly musings.

 
I made my first cassoulet from Olney's Time Life book on legumes. I've never had to look further.

 
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