Gourmet: What ever happened to the dinner party?

The dinner party is alive and well among my friends. I have one

frequently. Yes, carefully prepared food, flowers, a table cloth. The only thing missing from the ones I have now and the ones 25 years ago are coffee and cordials or Irish coffee at the end. No one seems to want either any more. Two nights ago a friend hosted one for my visiting daughter (who wanted to try all southern food). There was a lovely appetizer platter with smoked salmon, cheeses etc. Shrimp and grits, salad and fried cornbread. Nice wine and good conversation. I've forgotten the dessert because I don't usually eat them. Too full and not a sweet eater particularly. I must say a dinner party is a lot of work since you have to do everything yourself. It's worth it though, and fun once you get in the groove.

 
Alive, well and flourishing at my house...

My new year's resolution was to host more dinner parties. Just had 8 in for "pull out all the stops" Imperial Viennese 8 course feast that lasted 6 hours.

My building block for this dinner was 30 lbs. of beef neck, oxtail, heart, and marrow bones, pigs feet, chicken gizzards and hearts, wings, and backs, celery root, parsley, carrots, celery, onions, and peppercorns simmered in 5 gallons of water for 12 hours until it was reduced to 1 gallon. After I clarified it, I served the consomme as the first course with Austrian omelette strips (Frittatensuppe). It's so fun watching people's faces when they have their first taste of a real old-fashioned consomme.

Then, the stock went into salad marinnades and dressings, jus for the roast beef, gravy for the kartoffelknödeln, aspic for the canapes, etc.

Good stock is the key to good cooking!

 
Dinner Parties are what I live for! Although, like others, we don't get invited as often

They're not entirely a lost art, but styles have changed. We have to serve buffet style if there are more than 10 people. Our wine glasses don't match and neither does our silverware. I let people bring appetizers and desserts if they insist.

I think an old-fashioned dining room closed off from the kitchen dates back to when people had servants cooking for them. If dining rooms are being eliminated now as the article states, then kitchens are getting bigger with adjoining "great rooms" that can accommodate a crowd of onlookers.

 
On the other hand, I completely sympathize with this comment on the article.

Priceless:

"I throw a lot of dinner parties, but I’ve found the biggest problem is getting the guests to understand what’s going on. Some people can’t handle a multi-course meal spread out over three hours; they’re used to everything dumped on the table at once a la Thanksgiving. Others want to bring kids and throw a bunch of McDonalds crap on the table while the kids knock over wine glasses. Some assume that “cocktails at 6:30, dinner starts promptly at 7:00″ means “drop in any time between 8 and 11, and bring extra, uninvited guests with lots of food allergies. I’ve also found that last minute cancellations happen a lot, which is difficult when you’re focusing on controlling food costs and making sure you have enough people to make it worth the work.

I know this sounds like bitterness, but it’s not. I’ve completed dozens of successful dinner parties, and many were smashing events, but for some managing all the above annoyances made me swear off them for months at a time. As with a lot of older etiquette stuff, it only works if everyone knows what’s going on. These days, if you stand up when a lady leaves the table or attempt to push in her chair, it just confuses and bothers her. And while I’m firm on certain rules, I’m not a tyrant–I’ll have people begging for an invite to the next one, only to cancel at the last minute and ask, 'Can you move it to tomorrow night?'"

 
Richard, I may have just decided to move to Cincinnati. Could you elaborate with the recipes?

Or put the whole dinner in the menu section?

 
OMG! You saw that too? I totally agree. My worst entertaining moment happened

when a noted gluten-free guest agreed to come. I sang her praises, told everyone "I can't wait for you to meet her!" I prepared a number of gluten-free dishes especially for her and...SHE NO SHOWED! I kept watching the door like a dog. I finally gave up and after all the guests left, raced to check my e-mail and phone. Nothing. After stewing for 2 weeks, I finally sent her an e-mail, "Hey, what happened?" She was totally oblivious.

 
I fell off my chair at "extra, uninvited guests with lots of food allergies." But,

disruptions like that keep us on our toes and force us to be flexible, because no party will ever go entirely according to plan.

But Traca, a NO SHOW from a noted guest of honor?? That's too much. I think I remember you asking for recipes for that party--all that planning and not even a call to cancel.

Has anyone seen the old 30's movie "Dinner at Eight?" It's a classic. Billy Burke is planning the ultimate dinner party for distinguished guests and everything that can go wrong does, including the stock market crash. When her husband tries to explain that they have lost their fortune she shrieks, "YOU have problems? I still need an extra man, and the aspic has fallen!"

 
I haven't seen Dinner at Eight yet, sounds hilarious! I've been picking up old cookbooks and one of

them has advice on "Dinner with a maid." As if!

I did get a chance to have a dinner like that once. The owner of Sur La Table has a beautiful home & invited me over for a lunch with Escoffier's grandson (by this point he was well into his 60's). I was surprised to discover it was really an intimate lunch with 6 or 8 people there. She had someone working in the kitchen, plating up the food (served family style), clearing dishes that were passed through a butler window from the terrace. It was really an incredible experience.

 
Mushrooms Berkeley from "The Vegetarian Epicure" by Anna Thomas

1 lb. fresh mushrooms
2 medium bell peppers
1 onion
1/2 C butter

Sauce:
2 TBL Dijon mustard
2 TBL Worcestershire sauce
1/2 C brown sugar
3/4 C mellow red table wine
fresh-ground black pepper
seasoned salt

Wash the mushrooms and unless they are quite small, cut each one in half. Wash and seed the bell peppers and cut them into ~1" squares. Peel and chop the onion. Melt the butter in a large saucepan and saute the onion in the it until transparent.

Prepare the sauce:
Mix together the mustard, brown sugar and Worcestershire sauce until you have a perfectly smooth paste. Add the wine, season with lots of pepper and a little salt. Stir well.

When the onion is clear, add the mushrooms and peppers to the pan and saute a few minutes, stirring often. As the mushrooms begin to brown and reduce in size, add the wine sauce.

Simmer the mixture over a medium flame for about 45 minutes, or until the sauce is much reduced and thickened. The mushrooms and peppers will be very dark and evil looking, but irresistible in flavor and aroma.

 
The Menu

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g166/Finer_Kitchens/Richard/IMG.jpg

Cocktails and Appetizers
Diplomat Canapes, Selection of Cheeses, Smoked Oysters, Crackers, Champagne and Pear Ginger Martinis

Soup
Frittatensuppe (Consomme with omelette strips and chives)

Salad
Austrian Composed Salad: New Potato, Tomato, Mushroom, and Dilled Cucumber

Sorbet
Raspberry Ice

Main Course
Roast Beef au jus with Zweigelt Red Wine Sauce, Potato Dumpling, Braised Mulled Wine Red Cabbage, Green Benas, Cranberry Stuffed Spiced Pear

Dessert
Mozart Torte

Coffee and Sweets
Coffee, Brandy, and assorted chocolates

 
You are an incredible host, and look at the snow in the pictures! How I wish I could be a guest at

one of your parties some day!

PS, NFR, I saw the Met HD broadcast of "Nixon in China" today, and it was FANTASTIC! Any thoughts?

 
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