Paris recommendations...

M

maycee

Well-known member
We will be going to Paris for two weeks in May. I have never been out of the US so this is an experience for me. Ed spent a couple of Peace Corps years in Nigeria, he was an exchange student in Germany, lived several months in Prague, and has visited Paris. However, he isn't as much of a foodie as I am so I am asking the experts here for advice.

I would love to get recommendations for hotels (or would renting a flat be better?) and where. We haven't won the lottery and would prefer to spend our euros on eating and shopping and sightseeing so we are looking at 100 euros ($150) per night if possible.

Any recommendations for restaurants not to miss, stores not to miss or sights (other than the obvious) not to miss?

Thanks.

 
Some suggestions from me

see the link as well.

These were amazing tips from MargCDN that I took advantage of:

Definitely spend some time in the Galleries Lafayette department store. Plan your trip before lunchtime and to to the top floor restaurant for good cheap French dining with a glorious view across the roof of the Paris Opera with the Eiffel Tower in the distance.

In the food halls, do try the Spanish ham at the kiosk across the way from the Fois Gras counter. There are different areas in different buildings, make sure you get to all of them. In the housewares department you'll find the tea shop and spices. They have beautiful hand tied bougquet garni for .50 E/each.

One thing I did that I enjoyed very much, and in my memories of that beautiful May in Paris, it is large in my memory. Visit food shops and put picnics together. Then array yourself on the Champs du Mars, along the banks of the Seine, in the Tuilleries, etc, and have a decadent Parisian picnic. A truly memorable part of my vacation.

http://www.finerkitchens.com/swap/forum1/15170_Le_Restaurant_au_Vieux_Paris_dArcole

 
MIchael, re Paris restaurants. REally, if you want to get to one of the best, you need to be

booking NOW. In fact, you may be too late for some. I could certainly make lots of suggestions but perhaps you could give me an idea of what you want to experience and unfortunately, how much you want to pay.

And are you interested in buying cookware? I have lots of directions in that regard as well. Spices?

You could PM me if you like.

And I have perhaps one hotel suggestion near l'Opera which is a terrific central location.

Also on the Metro passes.

 
Michael, our favorite hotel in Paris is a tiny spot in the corner of Place St-Sulpice,,,

Hotel Recamier. It's nothing fancy at all, but it's clean and friendly and it's in a great location, on a historic plaza on the left bank within walking distance of most of the monuments, and near the Luxemburg Gardens to relax when you've had enough.

We always rent a tiny room on the front corner, there's one on each floor, for the view and because it's the cheapest room, being so small. Also because it only has a half-bath. There's a shower available upstairs. This small room is in the 100-euro range. Each time I take the elevator up to the shower I say to myself, "I just saved 20 euros."

There's a department store called Au Bon Marche, also on the left bank, which has an epicerie on the first floor that is perhaps the best food store in the world. This alone might be worth renting a flat--if you want to take advantage of the wonderful fresh products on sale throughout the city and cook them yourself. If not, plan on doing at least some picnicking.

It's hard to find bad food in Paris. We can't really afford the big name restaurants but we haven't found them necessary. You should do at least one meal in one of the old Alsatian-style brasseries, with big platters of choucroute garni and fresh seafood. Brasserie Julien has a gorgeous Belle Epoch dining room. Le Vaudeville is Art Deco. Both are owned by the same company and the food is wonderful. Chez Jenny is a little more touristy but still very good.

Otherwise, just wander about and check out the cafes. You'll have a great time.

One more tip: whichever museum you visit first, (and for me it's Saint-Chapelle, with the most amazing miedevil stained glass) buy a museum pass for however many days you plan to stay. It will probably save you money, but more importantly it lets you skip the long lines and enter through the "group" entrance at the major museums. You'll save hours.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g187147-d283118-Reviews-Hotel_Recamier-Paris_Ile_de_France.html

 
First timer recommendations for you ..

While several topics start out, "we (or friends,) are first time visitors, where do we eat?," there's not been a topic culling our collective advice. So here goes with my list not of my new favorites, or all-time favorites, but where I'd send first timers. (Eagle eyes will note that one of my current faves, Spring, is missing, both because it's booked far in advance and because it didn't fit into any easy category - it's sui generis.)

One classic brasserie Bofinger

One classic bistrot l’Ami Jean

One bustling fun place Astier

One neo-bistrot Cerisaie

One gastro-bistrot Le Repaire de Cartouche

One good fish place Fables de la Fontaine

One meat place Severo + Bis de Severo

One oyster place L’Ecallier du Bistrot

One post-modern one Ze Kitchen Galerie

One one-star experience Les Magnolias in Le Perreux-sur-Marne
Classic Brasserie Lipp

Classic bistrot La maison du Jardin

Bustling fun place Cinq Mars

neo bistrot Le Cameleon

gastro-bistrot Le Violon D'Ingres

Fish Gaya

meat Unico

oyster Le Bar a Huitres

One classic brasserie Bofinger, Gallopin

One classic bistrot: Chez Georges, Chez Denise

Gastro-Bistro*: La Violin D'Ingres, Clos des Gourmet, L'Os à Moelle

Neo Bistro*: l’Ami Jean, Paul Bert, Regalade, Troquet

One bustling fun place Fish,(Chartier if the food wasn't so bad)
These all come from follks over at the France forum at egullet.com, an excellent source for all the goigs-on in Paris and throughout France. These lists below are specifically for first-time visitors, go over to the forum for more ideas. To them I would add Cafe Constant in the 7th near the Eiffel Tower--excellent food, Catherine handles the Enlgih and her husband is the chef--a fun couple! Be sure to go to the markets for pique-nique food or if you have an apartment so you can cook. We like the Raspail market on Sunday mornings--it's all organic, and also the market in the Bastille square; it is open almost every day. Paris is the most magical city in the world--you are in for the trip of a lifetime!
One good fish place: Bistro du Dome

Wine bar: Le Rubis

One meat place: Relais d'Entrecote, Le Relais de Venise -

One post-modern one: Chateaubriand, Jean

A star experience: Taillevent, Bristol

 
about musem passes....

the tour books say you can buy them at the metro stations. We found this not to be true after trying several stations. Buy them in advance online to avoid the very long lines. And PS bring bags of money! Also, it may be "touristy" but for a first time visitor the open air tourist bus that you get on and off at will is a bargain and a great way to determine where you are and what you want to see next.

 
Paris restaurant

Relais l'Entrecote is a great favorite of ours. Not expensive, all they serve is steak and fries preceded by a frisee salad with walnuts. A few wine choices and several desserts. Service is brisk and you get served twice so it all stays hot. Two locations, one on rue St. Benoit(I think that is correct, don't have my notes out)near Blvd. St. Germain and another in the 8th or rue Marbeuf.

 
WOW! Thanks everybody...

you all have given me a lot of information to digest. Richard, I do remember those discussions for 2006 and had already printed a lot. I should have mentioned that but hen I wouldn't have gotten your reminder about Le Restaurant au Vieux Paris d'Arcole. I looked it up and a three course menu is only 59 euros.

Mark, we both love oysters so Le Bar a Huitres is high on the list for lunch.

Joe, thanks for the hotel recommendation. Reminds me of a B&B we stayed at in San Francisco. Au Bon Marche is also on the itinerary.

Thank god we have two weeks to make a dent in all this information.

 
They sell the museum passes at the major RER stations, but not at the regular Metro stations.

I didn't know you could buy them online--great idea.

 
{sigh}...I wish I could say "our favorite hotel in Paris". I think I'll go drown my sorrow in a

cafe latté and a croissant.

Oh, wait...the closest croissants are bulk-wrapped in cellophane at Super Walmarts.

Mer*d!

 
This may be something everyone else knew about museums, but we didn't:

Find out the day(s) the museum is FREE...and then run in the opposite direction. We didn't know about the hordes that descend and unfortunately picked the ONE day the Louvre is free to the public. We were crushed by the huddled masses entering and pushing through the museum. I had to leave....literally had to turn around and get out of that crush of people.

Sadly, we were leaving for Nice the next morning, so we never went back. I'm probably the only person in the universe to spend less than 15 minutes inside the Louvre.

Please review the visitor information and pick your days/times carefully.

 
LOL, Marilyn, if it's any consolation...

the reason it's our favorite is that it's the ONLY one we can afford.

 
Last year I was in Paris for a couple of days as part of a longer tour. I rushed

out to my two favorite places. Ste. Chapelle and D'Orsay Museum. Try to get to Ste Cahpelle at midday in bright sunlight to enjoy the stained glass at its best. Enjoy, enjoy!

 
...another sad Paris memory! Ste. Chapelle was #1 on my list --even above the Eiffel Tower...

Growing up in Pittsburgh, I lusted over the beauty of Heinz Memorial Chapel (see link), which is directly patterned after Ste. Chapelles. I'd always, always wanted to see the original and of course, we got there and it was...."closed for restoration."

(Over 6 weeks we learned to recognize that phrase in French, Belgium, Dutch and Italian.)

I did get to tour the basement, but somehow it didn't quite ring my bells.

http://www.heinzchapel.pitt.edu/architecture/interior/index.html

 
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